Q. Why can't I find the correct size furnace filter at my local home improvement store?

A. The filter shipped with your Carrier unit is made from higher-quality materials than those of the disposable filters found in retail stores. For that reason, replacement Carrier filters can only be purchased through Barron Heating, your Carrier dealer. However, keep in mind

Q. Where can I find literature about my Carrier products, such as owners manuals, installation guides and product specifications?

A. Our Product section has complete information with downloadable Consumer Brochures and Owners Manuals. Barron Heating, your Carrier dealer is your source for installation and product specifications.

Q. What does my warranty cover?

A. Under the standard factory warranty, Carrier covers parts that fail during the warranty period due to defect in the part. The warranty does not cover labor. A warranty certificate was included with your homeowner information packet, and is specific to the

Q. How can I talk to a factory engineer regarding a problem I am having with my Carrier equipment?

A. Simply contact Barron Heating, your expert engineering and technical resource.

Q. What is the life expectancy of my unit?

A. Dependable Carrier products are among the longest lasting heating and cooling products available. For your specific equipment, there are many variables that affect life expectancy, and of course, the regularity of routine maintenance. Contact your local Carrier dealer for insight into the remaining lifespan of your system.

Q. I am an Architect and need application/specification information so that I can specify Carrier products... where do I obtain this information?

A. Barron Heating can provide you with the specifications, and can also set you up to access the Carrier HVACpartners web site so that you can access the information yourself. If you are seeking specifications on older equipment, so as to specify something similar, it will be helpful if you have the model and serial number available.

Q. How do I find a quality brand of spa?

A. Take the time to look at various brands. Ask about warranties. Quality products will carry ironclad warranties against defects that will cover the shell, motors and control units. Reputable manufacturers will will not be shy about disclosing specifications. Check for either the ETL or UL rating. "Look under the hood." We cannot stress this enough. If the workmanship inside the access door of the spa looks shoddy, this tells you a lot about what you cannot see. In these time of rising energy costs, insist on a spa cabinet that is full-foamed, and has other energy saving features. Many companies will have documented estimates of operational costs. Also, since maintenance is a key issue, investigate the style of filtration and cleaning system the spa has to assure an easy cleaning schedule.

Q. Do I have to install plumbing for my portable spa?

A. No. Above-ground portable spas are normally filled with a garden hose. Hard plumbing is optional, but very rarely used since it is unnecessary.

Q. Should I use a 110-volt or 220-volt electric heater?

A. Depending on the Jacuzzi you choose, many times 220V is the only option due to the multiple therapy pumps. We recommend using the 220v option whenever practical, especially on full-sized spas. A 220v system offers the advantage of faster heating which reduces your "tubbing down-time" factor. There is also more amperage available to operate multiple motors, jets, lights, etc. A properly hard-wired 220v system has no cords to trip over or become unplugged. Contrary to popular misconception, there is no significant cost difference in heating with 110v system versus a 220v system. For a truly "portable" installation, 110v is generally more practical. Consult a qualified electrician for your wiring needs.

Q. What is meant by the spa pump's horsepower (HP) rating?

A. Spa manufacturers use two different ratings for their pumps: "Continuous Operating HP" and "Brake HP". Continuous Operating is the amount of HP the motor is capable of producing while the spa is in operation. This is the meaningful rating. Brake HP is the momentary HP the motor produces at startup, before dropping to Continuous HP. Brake HP is marketing hype while Continuous Operation demonstrates the HP while the spa is operating.

Q. Can I save money by using an ozonator?

A. Yes, the use of an ozonator will cut down the amount of conventional sanitizer needed. The reduction has been demonstrated as high as 50%, depending on spa usage and amount of run time. These devices use electricity to run, but the amount is really quite minimal.

Q. What should I look for in a spa cover?

A. Start with the core. Polystyrene foam, tapered from 4" to 2" to allow for shedding of surface water, is a good choice. Don't settle for an R-value of less than 12. R-14 is even better. Since foam cores absorb water, select a cover with a core that is heat-sealed in heavy plastic sheeting. Marine-grade vinyl with mildew and UV inhibitors is a must. Quality covers will also have two other features: a double reinforced folding center hinge, and steel reinforcement inside. Make sure the cover has adequate locking fasteners, and a zipper for the cover. Avoid cheap covers. They won't last long, and will end up costing you more in the long run both in higher energy usage and in replacement costs. Also, replace with the OEM cover

Q. What can I do to protect my spa cover from seasonal high winds?

A. Although high-quality safety covers come with 4 tie down straps and locking hardware, that alone may not always be enough to stand up to high winds. Thousands of spa covers are lost to storms each year. Additional tie down are now available which offer an added level of protection for these conditions. Fully adjustable for spas up to 8 ft. wide, these heavy-duty overall locking straps offer an extra degree of security.

Q. How often should I drain my spa?

A. Depending on usage and type of sanitizing system, a spa or hot tub with well-maintained water, which is treated with non-chlorine shock, should be drained and refilled every three to six months and definitely once per year. This is necessary because of the amount of total dissolved solids becomes excessive, making it difficult to maintain sanitizer effectiveness and water balance.

Q. Is there a good product for removing tub ring?

A. Since many things from organics to clarifying agents can cause a tub ring, feel free to check with a Backyards associate with questions or concerns. In most cases, a light duty scrubber or a TubRub will remove the lines easily and the addition of a product like Enzyme on a weekly basis will eliminate the ring all together.

Q. When should hot tub filters be replaced?

A. Filters are generally good for about a full year of usage. After that, they become less efficient in trapping foreign matter because of deterioration of the media. With the filter rotation method described in "How often..." (above), this means you would replace a pair of cartridges every 2 years

Q. Is there anything I can do to protect my hot tub cover from damage?

A. The main factors in spa cover deterioration are sunlight, dirt, and acid rain. Fortunately, there are now great products available to protect and clean vinyl covers, and greatly extend their life. Select a cover protectant that contains a UV blocker for fade resistance and use a good cleaner such as Citra Brite. Regular use of Fast Gloss will keep the vinyl supple, prevent cracking and fading, and seal out damaging moisture. Avoid products which contain silicone oil-- these will actually cause premature failure of the vinyl, when exposed to sunlight. We recommend Fast Gloss because it is the best product of its kind we have found, and is also Earth friendly. Don't forget to clean and treat the inside surfaces of your cover as well-- this is very important. Cover Conditioner can be used to treat the outside vinyl as well.

Q. My spa is losing water. How can I find the leak?

A. Leaks are rare in a well built spa and can be hard to find, but a common cause is pump seals. Look for water under your pump. Also check around your heater, pressure switch and all interior plumbing, unions, and connections. If visual inspection does not isolate the leak, you can try adding some food dye to the water. Another method is to allow the spa to sit until the water level stabilizes. There is a good chance that you will find the leak at that level. Yet another method is to fill the spa to correct level, then run it for a full day, marking the reduced water level with a crayon. Then refill, and allow it to sit for a full day with nothing running. If the water drops the same amount in both tests, this tells you that you likely have a shell leak (which includes jet fittings and/or other connections to the shell.) If it dropped more when pumps were running, it is more likely a seal or plumbing leak. Use of Leak Seal can save you some repair money. Although not always a permanent f

Q. I can hear the motor running, but there is no circulation or heat. What is going on?

A. First, check your filter. A severely clogged filter can greatly restrict water flow, and with little or no flow, there will be no heat either. Try running the spa with filter out. If water now circulates properly, replace your filter(s). Another frequent cause is an air lock in the pump, especially if you just drained your hot tub. To clear an air lock, first locate and close the valve on the intake side of your pump. Then, on the outflow side of the pump, loosen the pipe union just enough turns to allow the trapped air to escape and fill with water. Retighten union, open intake valve, and run spa to verify correction of the problem. If an air lock or clogged filter proves not to be the culprit, the cause could be blocked plumbing, or a damaged or obstructed impeller blade.

Q. Why does my water overheat?

A. Several conditions could cause water to overheating, including: a stuck thermostat, a stuck relay or contactor in your spa pack, or even leaving your pump on high speed for an extended period of time. Another possibility is a defective high-limit switch, likely in conjunction with one of the above.

Q. Why aren't my jets as powerful as they used to be?

A. The most common cause by far for reduced action in a spa is clogged or worn-out filter cartridges. If you try running your spa with the filter out, and this improves performance considerably, then you may have found the culprit. A broken impeller blade in your pump, or foreign matter obstructing the impeller can cause this. Bad motor bearings will (often indicated by a progressively loud motor or a grinding noise) could cause your pump to operate at a reduced speed, and pump less water. If air jets are weak, check for obstructions, inspect the blower if so equipped, and check gasket seals around the jet fittings. If the amount of water coming out of your jets is normal, but they no longer spin, there are several possible problems: they may be stuck from scale deposits. In this case, remove the affected jets and soak them in vinegar for 24 hours to dissolve the calcium. Be sure to treat your spa water with stain and scale preventer such as our Metal Gone and Spa Defender to avoid

Q. My wooden hot tub was left empty for a year. Now it leaks like a sieve. Any suggestions?

A. Wooden tubs should never be allowed to dry-out. This shrinks the staves, resulting in leaks. It is possible that the wood will re-absorb enough water over a period of days and expand so that the leaking will stop after refilling.

Q. Can we use our outdoor spa year 'round? Our winters get very cold.

A. Winter operation of your spa in cold climates is fine, if you take reasonable precautions to prevent freeze-damage to your equipment. During very low temperatures, you should either run your spa continually, or set the thermostat to run the pump(s) at a safe temperature. Check your owner's manual. In extreme low temperatures, 24-hour operation is the safest bet. It is important to check your water level daily, because if it gets too low, the pump could air lock. Remember to keep your filters clean. A clogged filter could cause the flow (pressure) switch to shut down your pump, and this could result in frozen equipment. Keep a clean, dry, spare filter on hand at all times, especially in the winter. To save energy, make sure your air jets are closed when not using the tub. Keep your cover securely strapped to prevent heat loss. If your cover is in poor condition, consider replacing it. A waterlogged cover has very little insulating value, and will cost you a lot in energy waste.

Q. How is bromine maintained?

A. Upon startup of your spa or hot tub, it is recommended to add a small amount of granular bromine. This establishes an immediate bromine reserve. The proper bromine level is then maintained by using bromine tablets in a floating device, not surprisingly called a "brominator" or "float". The best brominators are adjustable for proper dispersion of the sanitizer. In the case of most Jacuzzi's a bromine dispenser is built into the filter for easy of use and consistency.

Q. How is sanitizer level measured?

A. Measure sanitizer levels with test strips. Many spa owners check their water daily, others find that once a week is sufficient, especially if bather load is not excessive and a floating brominator is used.

Q. What is the importance of pH?

A. Maintaining proper pH level is essential for proper operation of a hot tub spa, regardless of the sanitizing method used. If the pH falls too low, resulting in water that is too acidic, the sanitizer will dissipate rapidly, pipes and motor seals will corrode, and bathers will notice eye discomfort. If the pH rises too high, resulting in water that is too basic or alkaline, damaging scale may form, water may become cloudy, and eye discomfort may also result.

Q. Is there a way to lock pH into balance?

A. Yes. There are now products on the market such a PH Balance that will lock pH levels, once they are established, into nearly perfect balance between water changes. This eliminates the need for constant pH checking and adjusting. Take care to not add Calcium Booster prior to adding PH Balance as precipitation of the calcium may occur during the balancing process.

Q. How do I raise my pH level?

A. The pH level can be raised by the addition of a product containing sodium bicarbonate (SPA UP). This will also raise the Total Alkalinity. Sodium hydrogen carbonate (ALKALINITY INCREASER) can also be used, but will have less of an effect on pH.

Q. What is the importance of total alkalinity?

A. Maintaining the proper range of total alkalinity will prevent wild fluctuations in pH, will reduce the tendency toward corrosion of pipes and fixtures, and will reduce the scale forming potential of the spa water.

Q. How is total alkalinity measured?

A. You can measure total alkalinity with test strips.

Q. What is the recommended calcium hardness of spa water?

A. The National Spa & Pool Institute recommends an ideal range of 200-400 parts-per-million (PPM) with a minimum level of 150 PPM, and a maximum of 500-1000+. The amount of Calcium Hardness required for "balance" water is determined by the water temperature, pH and Total Alkalinity. Usually a perfect target for NW Washington customers is 200ppm.

Q. How can I increase the calcium hardness of my water?

A. Add Calcium Booster, containing calcium chloride to boost calcium levels that are too low. Note: calcium increasers should not be used when using a pH locking product.

Q. What is the cause of cloudy water?

A. Cloudy water can be caused by pH that is too high, but the most common cause is excessive contaminants in the water. Make sure your filter is clean and in good condition. Add a water-clarifying agent.

Q. What causes the musty odor I detect when I open my spa cover?

A. A common cause is mold or mildew growth on the inside of the spa cover itself. These organisms grow here because they don't come in contact with the sanitizer. Condensation forms on the inside ceiling of the cover, then rains back down into the spa water, contaminating it as well. The remedy is simple: clean the inside of your cover whenever your drain your spa.

Q. We use our spa in the summer (at reduced temperature) to cool-off. Will that adversely affect the water chemistry?

A. Lot's of tubbers do the same, and it's perfectly OK to enjoy your soak at a lower temperature. Keep your water in balance, and it should be fine. If you have kids, remember, a hot tub is not a small swimming pool. If they use it as a play pool, with frequent trips in and out (as most kids will do) you will have to change your water often. If you are going to maintain a different temperature for an extended time, visit a Backyards store for specific balance points that will be different than when tubs are at normal temperatures..

Q. My water immediately turned green. What is going on?

A. Most colored water problems result from the presence of metallic impurities such as iron (rusty color), copper (green) or other minerals (black, brown, etc). These discolorations may be present in the source water, or can be the result of the acidic action of water with low pH on: pipes, metal heater parts, and equipment. Prevent and correct this condition by using Metal Gone and by keeping spa water in balance.