IAQ 101 (AKA Indoor Air Quality Basics)

December 16th, 2013

The heat is blowing, the furnace is purring like a kitten, the family is warm wherever they are lounging in the house. Everything seems to be good, as far as the heating system is concerned… or is it?

It seems like whenever that furnace blower comes on, Jim starts sneezing. All winter long you’re dusting every week. Sometimes its hard to sleep at night with the dry throats and all the coughing and refilling glasses of water.

Here’s the kicker: you are not alone.

For decades homeowners have been settling for this relationship with their house, but it doesn’t have to be this way.Thankfully, after decades of research and testing, we now understand the important link between your home’s contents, heating system, construction materials and you. This is an exciting industry to be in when we can honestly say there are new affordable answers to problems that have been plaguing our every day health for as long as we can remember. Indoor air quality is totally within our control.

What is Indoor Air Quality?

Well, its the the contents of the air inside your home.

  • Its the humidity (moisture content) of that air.
  • Its the visible and invisible particles floating on the drafts.
  • Its the specks settling on your DVR and china hutch.
  • Its all the little living critters that inhabit your home
  • Its one of the primary causes and exacerbating factors of sinus and respiratory issues.

Some Myths about dust and air contaminants:

  • “We bring it inside with us.” – Not usually the case. Most houses generate the majority of their air contaminants by their very construction. Depending on design and the state of your duct system, different parts of a house exist in state of negative or positive pressure. These pressures can drive air out and suck air in to the living space. Whatever this air passes through comes with it: fiberglass insulation, dirt, pest droppings, molds and more.
  • “My house is leaky, mostly the doors and windows.” – Doors and windows make up about 20% of the air leakage in the average home according to energy experts with the Department of Energy. The majority of the air the house “breathes” is from the crawlspace and attic through mechanical, plumbing and electrical penetrations often hidden from direct view. Furthermore, those leaky doors and windows are generally sources of GOOD fresh air, directly from outside.
  • “All houses have to be dusted a couple times a month.”- Well, this is a touchy subject because how often someone dusts is related to how much they are bothered by the stuff. If you find you are dusting more often than you would like, you likely have opportunities to improve this situation. A house that’s been sealed up tight and ventilated right should be able to go a month or more without significant dust build up.

Whats the answer?

Our motto at Barron Heating is “Test, don’t guess”, so the first step is to have a Home and Duct Performance Assessment completed on your home. This test will identify where the air, heat and contaminants are moving and what the best methods of controlling them might be.

Common Prescriptive Solutions Include:

  • Air Sealing the duct system
  • Insulating the duct system
  • Air sealing attic floor and crawl space ceiling
  • Air sealing leaks from inside the home
  • Adding a fresh air duct to the heating system
  • Installing whole house ventilation (timer driven exhaust fans)
  • Installing an Energy Recovery Ventilator (ERV)
  • Crawl space renovation and clean up
  • Insulating floors, walls and ceilings
  • And more… the answer is unique to your home!

Good luck and feel free to ASK AN EXPERT if you have any questions.

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Custom Energy Efficiency Report For Your Home

December 13th, 2013

At EnergySavvy.com  you can take a free, short survey to help identify ways to save money in your home. The questions inquire about the types and frequency of energy used, kinds of appliance in your home, and the type of unit you live in – all things that you know!

There are only 5 short pages of questions to answer, then you can view your results and have them emailed to you. In the results you will see how energy efficient you are being as compared to your neighbors with similar homes. You will also see a percentage of Potential Savings. These savings are possible if you follow the provided Customized Action Plan. This plan takes into consideration what is causing your home to be less efficient.

The last thing they provide is average statistics for your area. Here you will find the typical energy prices & how efficient people in your area typically are.

Whether you are just curious about how your home stacks up in energy efficiency, or you genuinely want to make changes in your home to save money and improve your life this is a wonderful and free resource that everyone should take advantage of.

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Tips to Lower Your Furnace/Boiler’s Energy Usage

December 10th, 2013
  • Set your thermostat as low as is comfortable.
  • Keep the temperature fairly constant, as frequent changes will utilize more energy by causing unnecessary cycling on and off. Setting back the temperature at night, however, is recommended.
  • Clean or replace furnace filters once a month or as needed.
  • Oil-fired boilers should be professionally cleaned and tuned once a year. Gas-fired equipment needs to be checked every other year.

  • Clean warm-air registers, baseboard heaters, and radiators as needed; make sure they are not blocked by furniture, carpeting, or drapes.
  • Keep draperies and shades on south-facing windows open during the heating season to allow sunlight to enter your home; close them at night to reduce the chill you may feel from cold windows.
  • Close the door to an unoccupied room or area that is isolated from the rest of the house and turn down the thermostat or turn off the heat for that room or area.
  • Use kitchen, bath, and other ventilating fans wisely. Turn these fans off as soon as they are no longer needed. In about 1 hour, these fans can pull out a house-full of warmed or cooled air. They can also pull dangerous furnace combustion gasses into the house in some situations.
  • Check your ducts for air leaks. First look for sections that should be joined but have separated and then look for obvious holes.
  • Do not use duct tape to repair leaky ducts. Standard duct tape has been shown unreliable in sealing duct leaks. Various mastics or non-cloth-backed tapes are preferable.

Posted by Wes Diskin

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Wintered-In Improvements

December 6th, 2013

This cold winter weather can sometime leave us feeling stuck inside our homes more than any other season with the wind, the rain, the snow, the sludge… oh winter! All of this extra time spent inside reminds you of all the improvements you’ve been meaning to make to your home, but never had the time for. We’ve got 3 rainy day fix-ups that will put your mind at ease and keep you feeling productive if you find yourself stuck at home.

  1. Are your carpets stained from summer fun and tracked in dirt? Winter could be the perfect time to get them cleaned up before its too late. This stain removal recipe is from This Old House
    “Mix 1 teaspoon OxiClean with 2 cups water in a spray bottle and spritz the stain liberally. Cover with a damp white rag, then apply an iron on medium-low heat and let the steam do the work.”
  2. We say there’s no better time for a relaxing bath than in the winter time. But is your tub ‘soak ready’? Its common for tubs to get full of grime and stuck on dirt after a few uses. We have another great recipe, a  favorite from Pinterest, for a cleaner made with items in your pantry that will do wonders for your bathtub. This one requires a little bit of planning ahead, but very little elbow grease
    “Mix 1/2 cup of white vinegar that has been heated in the microwave for 90 seconds. Pour into a spray bottle and add 1/2 cup of dish soap. Shake gently and spray on dirty surfaces of your tub. Let sit for 1-2 hours and simply wipe away!”
  3. Kitchen clutter is a problem we often don’t realize until the winter when we are making large meals and baking regularly. Take a few days and explore Pinterest for ideas on DIY pot racks. These racks keep your pots exposed, giving your kitchen a modern twist. The project can be as big or as small as you would like to make it. It may be easiest to buy a standalone structures or a curtain rod that you can easily attach hooks to. Our favorites are all here. Notice you can use this technique to de-clutter kitchen tools and the lids to your pots and pans as well.

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Setting Temperature On Your Water Heater

December 3rd, 2013

Each year, approximately 3,800 injuries and 34 deaths occur in the home due to scalding from excessively hot tap water. The majority of these accidents involve the elderly and children under the age of five. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) urges all users to lower their water heaters to 120 degrees Fahrenheit. In addition to preventing accidents, this decrease in temperature will conserve energy and save money.Most adults will suffer third-degree burns if exposed to 150 degree water for two seconds. Burns will also occur with a six-second exposure to 140 degree water or with a thirty second exposure to 130 degree water. Even if the temperature is 120 degrees, a five minute exposure could result in third-degree burns.Various procedures for lowering water temperature in the home exist, depending on the method of heating. Here are some suggestions:

Electric water heaters. Call your local electric company to adjust the thermostat. Some companies offer this service at no-charge. Hot water should not be used for at least two hours prior to setting. To make the adjustment yourself, start by shutting off current to the water heater, then turn off the circuit breaker to the heater or remove the fuse that serves the heater. Most electric water heaters have two thermostats, both of which must be set to a common temperature for proper operation. To reach these thermostats you must remove the upper and lower access panels. Adjust the thermostat following the instructions provided with the appliance. Hold a candy or meat thermometer under the faucet to check water temperature. If your water heater is aging or experiencing issues, consider whether it might be time for a replacement to ensure safety and efficiency.

Gas water heaters. Because thermostats differ, call your local gas company for instructions. Where precise temperatures are not given, hold a candy or meat thermometer under faucet for most accurate reading first thing in the morning or at least two hours after water use. If reading is too high, adjust thermostat on heater, according to manufacturers instructions, and check again with thermometer.

Furnace heater. If you do not have an electric, gas, or oil-fired water heater, you probably have an on-line hot water system. Contact your fuel supplier to have the temperature lowered. If you live in an apartment, contact the building manager to discuss possible options for lowering your tap water temperature. Reducing water temperature will not affect the heating capacity of the furnace.

The CPSC notes that a thermostat setting of 120 degrees Fahrenheit (49 degrees Celsius) may be necessary for residential water heaters to reduce or eliminate the risk of most tap water scald injuries. Consumers should consider lowering the thermostat to the lowest settings that will satisfy hot water needs for all clothing and dish washing machines. If your water heater is struggling to maintain a steady temperature, it might be worth checking how old is too old for a water heater to determine if an upgrade is necessary.

Never take hot water temperature for granted. Always hand-test before using, especially when bathing children and infants. Leaving a child unsupervised in the bathroom, even if only for a second, could cause serious injuries. Your presence at all times is the best defense against accidents and scaldings to infants and young children. If you’re considering an upgrade for safety and efficiency, remember that a water heater makes a great home investment and can provide long-term benefits for your household.

Posted by Wes Diskin 

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Reducing the Amount of Hot Water You Use

November 26th, 2013

The next time you pay your utility bill, try one simple calculation. Divide the total amount by seven. The result is the amount you spend to heat your water. During the course of a year, this cost adds up. And when you consider that 95 million households in this country pay the same percentage, it is easy to see how much money–and energy–is used to heat water.

Generally, four destination points in the home are recognized as end uses for hot water: faucets, showers, dishwashers, and washing machines. Now, you do not have to take cold showers, dine on dirty dishes, or wear dirty clothes to reduce your hot-water consumption. Less radical measures are available that will be virtually unnoticeable once you apply them.

Faucets and Showers

Simply repairing leaks in faucets and showers can save hot water. A leak of one drip per second can cost $1 per month, yet could be repaired in a few minutes for less than that.Turning the hot-water faucet off while shaving or brushing your teeth, as opposed to letting the water run, can also reduce water-heating costs. Another option is limiting the amount of time you spend in the shower.

Other actions may require a small investment of time and money. Installing low-flow shower heads and faucet aerators can save significant amounts of hot water. Low-flow shower heads can reduce hot-water consumption for bathing by 30%, yet still provide a strong, invigorating spray. Faucet aerators, when applied in commercial and multifamily buildings where water is constantly circulated, can also reduce water-heating energy consumption.
the Energy Policy Act of 1992 sets maximum water flow rates at 2.5 gallons (9.5 liters) per minute at a standard residential water pressure of 80 pounds per square inch (552 kilopascals).. However, older shower heads deliver 4 to 5 gallons (15.1 to 18.9 liters) of water per minute.

A quick test can help you determine if you should shop for a shower head replacement. 

Turn on the shower to the normal pressure you use, hold a bucket that has been marked in gallon increments under the spray, and time how many seconds it takes to fill the bucket to the 1-gallon (3.8-liter) mark. If it takes less than 20 seconds, you could benefit from a low-flow showerhead. A top-quality, low-flow showerhead will cost $10 to $20 and pay for itself in energy saved within 4 months. Lower quality showerheads may simply restrict water flow, which often results in poor performance.

Automatic Dishwashers

A relatively common assumption is that washing dishes by hand saves hot water. However, washing dishes by hand several times a day could be more expensive than operating some automatic dishwashers. If properly used, an efficient dishwasher can consume less energy than washing dishes by hand, particularly when you only operate the dishwasher with full loads.

The biggest cost of operating a dishwasher comes from the energy required to heat the water before it ever makes it to the machine. Heating water for an automatic dishwasher can represent about 80% of the energy required to run this appliance.

Average dishwashers use 8 to 14 gallons (30.3 to 53 liters) of water for a complete wash cycle and require a water temperature of 140 degrees F (60 degrees C) for optimum cleaning. But setting your water heater so high could result in excessive standby heat loss. This type of heat loss occurs because water is constantly heated in the storage tank, even when no hot water is used. Not to mention, a water heater temperature of 120 degrees F (48.9 degrees C) is sufficient for other uses of hot water in the home.

The question, then, is must you give up effective cleaning for hot-water energy savings? The answer is no. A “booster” heater can increase the temperature of the water entering the dishwasher to the 140 degrees F recommended for cleaning. Some dishwashers have built-in boosters that will automatically raise the water temperature, while others require manual selection before the wash cycle begins. A booster heater can add about $30 to the cost of a new dishwasher but should pay for itself in water-heating energy savings in about 1 year if you also lower your water heater temperature. Reducing the water heater temperature is not advisable, however, if your dishwasher does not have a booster heater.

Another feature that reduces hot-water use in dishwashers is the availability of cycle selections. Shorter cycles require less water, thereby reducing the energy cost. The most efficient dishwasher currently on the market can cost half as much to operate as the most inefficient model. If you are planning to purchase a new dishwasher, check the EnergyGuide labels and compare the approximate yearly energy costs among brands. Dishwashers fall into one of two categories: compact capacity or standard capacity. Although compact-capacity dishwashers may appear to be more energy efficient, they hold fewer dishes and may force you to use the appliance more frequently than you would use a standard-capacity model. In this case, your energy costs could be higher than with the standard-capacity dishwasher.

Washing Machines

Up to 90% of operating washing machines is associated with the energy needed to heat the water. However, washing machines do not require a minimum temperature for optimum cleaning. Either cold or warm water can be used for washing most laundry loads; cold water is always sufficient for rinsing. Make sure you follow the cold-water washing instructions for your particular laundry detergent. Washing only full loads is another good rule of thumb for reducing hot-water consumption in clothes washers.

As you would for dishwashers, consult the Energy Guide labels when shopping for a new washing machine. Inefficient washing machines can cost three times as much to operate as efficient machines. Select a machine that allows you to adjust the water temperature and water levels for the size of the load. Also, front-loading machines use less water and, consequently, less energy than top loaders. However, in this country, front loaders are not as widely available as top loaders. Keep in mind that the capacity of front loaders may be smaller than that of most top-loading machines.

Smaller capacity washing machines often have better Energy Guide ratings. However, a reduced capacity might cause you to increase the number of loads you wash and possibly increase your energy costs.

Reducing hot-water usage is primarily a matter of common sense and exerting a little extra effort to not be wasteful. Once you have applied a few simple, low-cost measures for reducing hot-water consumption, you may want to consider water-heating system improvements if you wish to further reduce your energy bill.

Posted by Wes Diskin

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AeroSeal Infographic

November 25th, 2013

AeroSeal is the fastest growing method to improve the duct system in your home. Recently highlighted on the Today Show and This Old House, it’s fast becoming a ‘standard’ improvement on any home performance project.  Visit www.BarronHeating.com/AeroSeal to watch an educational video on its use and function

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5 Reasons Not to Install Your Own Water Heater

November 19th, 2013
  1. You may not select the right water heater for your needs and specifications.
    It’s not as simple as replacing a 30-gallon hot water heater with another 30-gallon model. There are thousands of sizes and options available today. Fuel source, energy efficiency, fast recovery, venting and anticipated demand must all be considered in order to determine the correct model.
  2. Local codes and ordinances may not permit self-installation.
    Regulations governing water heater installation vary by city. Professional contractors are familiar with the rules and regulations in each city they service.
  3. Installation requires materials and knowledge most homeowners don’t have on hand.
    Installation involves much more than just attaching a water line. A professional contractor arrives with all the fittings, pipes, parts, tools, venting materials and valves needed to install the job correctly the first time. Most also include removal and disposal of your old water.
  4. A professional contractor may be able to repair your hot water heater instead of replace it.
    If your hot water heater’s problem is diagnosed as a defective heating element or faulty valve, it can be fixed. A contractor’s experience is the difference between a minor repair and unnecessary investment in a new water heater.
  5. Contractors provide safety and security you can live with.
    Professional contractors are licensed and bonded to ensure your safety. Most provide warranties covering each installation. The local building authorities inspect all work, as required by code to protect your family’s health and safety

Posted by Wes Diskin

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Which is the Right Furnace Filter?

November 15th, 2013

We should start this post by explaining that within the three main categories of filters, there are many variations on features and installation restrictions. This is meant to be a basic overview to get you started to asking the first right questions before making your final decision.

Media Filters (Paper Filters, Pleated Filters, Washable Filters, Disposable Filters)-

  • Media filters are the first and most basic line of defense when it comes to air filtration. These are a no frills, low efficiency technology that takes care of the basic needs of removing the largest particles before they are deposited in the furnace or back into your home.
  • Most basic media filters range between effectively removing 2-15% of the largest particles from the air stream.
  • Media filters offer no “kill” solution for germs, bacteria, mold or viruses.
  • Media filters are usually disposable and should be replaced every three to four months in the average home.However, there are reusable media filters that can be washed. These filters are most often less effective than the disposable type.

Electronic Air Cleaners

  • Electronic Air Cleaners, or EACs, are the most common upgrade from the standard media filter.
  • EACs are powered and use electrostatic fields to attract particles to the surface of the main filter cartridges.EACs are equipped with washable prefilters that, along with the electrostatic cartridges, need to be cleaned every 3-6 months.
  • EACs are generally rated to effectively remove 75-85% of the largest particles from the air.
  • EACs are not considered to have a “kill” capability.

Air Purifiers

  • Air Purifiers are considered the most effective at cleaning the air stream in your ducts.
  • Air Purifiers will utilize a variety of technologies, layered within the unit, to remove and hold 90-99.9% of the particles in the air. Technologies may include: UV, media filtration, electrostatic, electric sterilization, among others.
  • Some Air Purifiers offer a “kill” capability that can effectively destroy viruses, bacteria, mold and germs.
  • Air Purifiers require an annual maintenance by a professional. Some require annual maintenance kits costing between $100 and $200.

When choosing the right filtration equipment for your system, I suggest first considering how you have experienced the air in your home and what value you place on improving its quality. If you or anyone else in the home have suffered from respiratory ailments, allergies or chronic sinus irritations, you may want to consider that improving your filtration may relieve some of the symptoms or lessen their severity.

If you really have never been concerned with dust or indoor air quality, the basic media filter will do the trick for simply protecting your heating equipment. Whatever filtration type you have installed, be sure to check and change or clean it regularly, at least every 3 to 4 months. A dirty filter can seriously effect your heating system’s ability to operate efficiently and distribute conditioned air around the home.

A last consideration regarding your filtration choice is that your home may be experiencing air contaminant infiltration from a source that will not be addressed by your duct filter. You may need to look into other features of the structure to find the most valuable opportunities for upgrading indoor air quality. These issues are only discovered through a Home and Duct Performance Test (a service offered by Barron Heating and AC).

Good luck and don’t forget to ASK AN EXPERT if you have any further questions.

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Turning down the heat will save you money. Simple really

November 12th, 2013

There are literally dozens of things you can do to cut back on your heating (and cooling) costs. These range from things like getting a high energy efficiency system to just making sure that you have adequate insulation in all parts of your house. But too many people overlook one of the simplest things that you can do to cut down on your monthly heating bill, and that is to turn the thermostat down.

Of course, you did not pay for that high tech home comfort system just so that you could walk around cold all winter long. You certainly want to keep your house at a temperature that is comfortable, but what does that really mean?

The normal default setting for a home heating system is usually somewhere between 72°F and 75°F. If you have your thermostat set somewhere in this range in the winter, you are probably quite comfortable indoors. In fact, you might not even need a sweater. But would you really notice if it was a degree or two cooler? Would it be incredibly inconvenient to put on a sweater or sweatshirt after all?

The truth is that most of us will be just as comfortable at 69°F as we are at 72°F, and the effect that small adjustment can have on your heating bill is actually pretty significant. In fact, you will save an average of 3% on your monthly bill for every degree you turn your thermostat down. Drop the temperature down by three or four degrees and that will give you up to a 10% monthly savings – hardly something to turn up your nose at.

And setting the regular temperature in your house a bit lower is not the only way your thermostat settings can save you money. You will also save quite a bit if you take the time to turn down the temperature when you leave the house and when you go to bed at night. There simply is no reason to pay to heat your house when you are not there and you will certainly be rewarded with a lower energy bill for your efforts.

Posted by Wes Diskin

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