TELL-TALE SIGNS OF PROBLEM DUCTS

October 25th, 2013

Now that you know here each branch duct leads, you are in a better position to ask whether your system is likely to be a big energy loser. Here are the things to look for. 

Uninsulated Ducts in Unconditioned Spaces

Heat transfer through duct walls can contribute significantly to energy losses. Conductive heat losses are typically at least as great as the energy losses due to air leakage. If the duct system runs through an attic or vented crawlspace and is not insulated, you can be sure that much energy is being wasted. If the ducts are in a basement, you will have to weigh the fact that insulating the ducts will cause the basement to get colder. If both the ducts and the basement walls are uninsulated, you should consider insulating the basement walls instead of the ducts.

Disconnected, Torn, or Damaged Ducts

A thorough inspection of the duct system should be made to look for holes large enough to see. Some sections of duct that are supposed to be joined together may have fallen away from each other, leaving a gap through which large quantities or air can leak. Flexible duct sections may have been torn during installation or afterward. Fiberglass ductboard sections are subject to damage if weight is placed on them. Whatever the cause, visible holes in ductwork are a clear indication that the system needs fixing. Blind-Alley Ducts Occasionally found in duct systems that use joist spaces or other parts of the building structure to channel air flow, blind-alley ducts occur as a result of mistakes made during installation.

A blind-alley duct leads nowhere (except possibly to the outside), while the register it was supposed to serve has no source of heat. The room containing this register will then be too cold. If it is an important room, the thermostat setting may be raised in an attempt to get enough heat to this room. If a room always seem too cold or a register doesn’t seem to have any air flowing out of it, it may be worth investigating.

Inadequate Return-Side Ductwork

As we’ve noted, it is common to find building spaces pressed into service as part of the duct system. These tend to be leaky, especially on the return side. Even worse, some homes are designed without any return ductwork at all. In that case, unless the furnace is in the conditioned space, it will be surrounded by cold basement or crawl-space air and will have to use more energy to warm this cold air for delivery to the home than it would have if warmer air from the living space were available from return ducts. A system without return ductwork can also depressurize the furnace room, giving rise to the health hazards we’ve already discussed.

Content from D.O.E Reaseach & Develpment

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Where Your Boot Meets the Floor

October 18th, 2013

One key duct component you’ll hear mentioned regularly in the world of home performance is the venerable “floor-to-boot” connection.

It may sound like some obscure honky-tonk dance, but it is really one of the more important points in your home to investigate and seal when it comes to indoor air quality and efficiency. The floor-to-boot connection is the seam where the metal duct meets the subfloor. The included fittings usually consist of a round duct elbow and a rectangular duct box that fits up into the hole cut in your floor. The registers (aka grilles) you see around your house that deliver heat are fit inside this rectangular duct box. From the floor seam to the elbow, leaks at this point are important to address AND can also be the easiest to DIY.

Often, the material or nails that were installed to secure this piece of duct to the floor have been compromised, worn out or damaged. A gap can form around the edge that is a direct leak from the crawl space (yuk!) into the home. This is a passive leak when the furnace is not running and a forced leak point when it is.

This “broken boot” condition can also be a key indicator that other parts of your system may be compromised and a duct performance test is warranted.
See our articles on crawl spaces and duct leakage to find out more.

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Is it CHI or CHEE?

October 12th, 2013

The Chinese have a term ‘CHI’ that is defined as: The light, refreshing, uplifting feng shui energy that is beneficial to your health and well-being. We’d like you to consider your ‘CHEE”
They tell us that Good Chi, takes many forms, such as:

  • The energy you experience walking by the beach (high amount of negative ions are beneficial to your health)  
  • The energy you experience in a lush forest (Japanese have the expression of “wood bathing”)
  • In a harmonious interior environment with a good flow of feng shui energy, clean air and plenty of natural light.

At Barron, we can’t help you with the FengShui design of your home or suggest which local beach or forest might put your spirit in the best position to receive ‘good Chi’ (probably any of our great outdoor areas will do the trick)…but we can help in positioning your home to be in the perfect condition to control, clean and condition the indoor environment we will spend most hours of the day in.

Many homes can’t keep windows open during good weather due to allergens and outside air moving into the home and causing respiratory issues. This leaves a home feeling stuffy or uncomfortable.  Then to make matters worse, when they lay down to sleep in the evening in a home that may be too warm or uncomfortable to provide the beneficial sleep…the home can go into a state (due to negative pressure) that brings a tremendous amount of dust, contaminants & allergens into the home.  The contaminants enter through can lights, attic hatches, electrical switches or under wall plates and pollute the air we breathe.  Ever wonder why you wake up more stuffy than when you went to bed?

At Barron, we appreciate the CHI but we’re more about the CHEE.

What’s CHEE?  We’re glad you asked…

CHEE stands for the Comfort, Health Energy Efficiency of your home.  Creating the perfect balance of those three is Barron’s specialty and what we feel is the key to providing the perfect indoor living environment.  We work hard at good CHEE so that the path to your front door can bring the same feelings of peace and serenity that a walk on the beach or next to the forest can provide.

Take a look at the different Services we provide to improve the CHEE around your home as you work toward your own perfect balance.  We’d love the opportunity to help.

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Don’t Be So Negative?

October 11th, 2013

Negative air pressure is formed when more air is exhausted from your home than is brought in to it. Typically, this is due to a home’s envelope being too airtight….it’s like the house is “gasping” for air. It seems somewhat ironic that a house that has been made airtight to save energy should now be loosened up to become healthy, but that is, in fact, what is needed.

Houses Need to Breathe!

There are appliances such as bathroom fans, range hoods and clothes dryers pushing air out of your house. The result of this creates negative air pressure in the house which means the house becomes more interested in trying to suck air in than pushing air out. Your house will try to draw air in from the easiest place which will be the existing flues of the furnace, wood stove, fireplace and gas water heater. When this happens, carbon monoxide is being forced in to your home and indoor air quality is compromised.

Carbon Monoxide

Carbon monoxide is an odorless, tasteless gas that is toxic. It is a by-product of the incomplete combustion of fuels such as propane, wood, oil, gasoline and natural gas. Exposure to carbon monoxide can cause flu-like symptoms (headache, nausea, fatigue, dizziness, disorientation) and even death. Every home should have at least one carbon monoxide detector as well. If you don’t have one, make the small investment.

Signs Your Home May Have Negative Air Pressure

  • A rush of air or draft when opening an exterior door
  • A lack of fresh air, a musty smell or lingering odors around the house
  • Mold, mildew, moisture or condensation around windows or on walls
  • Back drafting of combustion appliances such as the fireplace, wood stove, gas water heater or furnace

Eliminating Negative Air Pressure

Removing negative air pressure requires that you bring in “make-up” air from the outside in a controlled manner. A licensed HVAC contractor can help you determine if you need additional make-up air and how to best introduce it into your home. One method is through the use of mechanical ventilation. With this method, ducts and fans are used to bring new air into the home. Mechanical ventilation systems also allow for a constant flow of outside air into the house which is preferable to relying on outside air entering the house through foundation cracks, doors, windows, the garage, etc.

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The Beauty of Zone Heating

October 10th, 2013

While it might not technically be a necessity, there are a lot of reasons why you might want to look into having a zone heating system installed in your home. Whether you’ve been using the same home heating system for a long time or are looking to have a new one installed, there’s never a bad time to have a zone heating system put in.

Most people think that the only thing that affects their home heating and cooling bills is the energy efficiency of their furnace or heat pump. However, that’s simply not always the case. Certainly, the more efficient your furnace or heat pump is, the lower your energy bills will be. But that doesn’t mean they’re as low as they could possibly be.

After all, if you don’t have a zone control system installed, you’re paying to heat your entire house every time you turn on the heat. Depending on the size of your house, that could mean you’re heating anywhere from two to 10 rooms or more that are unoccupied at the time. In fact, you could be paying to heat an entire empty wing of your home. And while you’ll pay less than you would if your heating system was less efficient, you’re still paying more than you need to.

With a zone control system, you can heat your home much more efficiently because you can control which areas of the house get the heat and which ones don’t. You can set multiple different temperatures for the different zones of your home, which allows you to keep the occupied areas warm while not forcing you to waste energy to heat unoccupied spaces.

Aside from the economic benefits of only heating the areas of your home that you need, zone control systems also can put an end to some of those contentious thermostat wars that go on in so many households. If the members of your household can never agree on what a comfortable temperature is, they can simply each set their own temperature for their own area of the house.
That way, everyone is happy and no one has to suffer uncomfortably. After all, you paid a lot for your state of the art home heating system. It’s only fitting that you should be able to get the most possible out of it.
Posted by Wes Diskin

 

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Fixing Your Duct System Makes “Cents”

October 9th, 2013

In this article we are going to be discussing the EFFICIENCY MATH of purchasing a furnace and how duct sealing plays into your decisions.

Many customers start with the goal of “increasing their efficiency”, however, what they should be focusing on is “decreasing energy use”. In a lot of ways this is similar to the Government cutting spending or increasing taxes. For example, if there is a budget that needs to be met, they can either cut spending or increase taxes to meet it. Saving energy is like this in that if we need to lower your energy use we can either cut waste or increase efficiency.

The real kicker is that not one of us would buy a hybrid car and then run it on half inflated tires, but thousands of consumers make a similar decision every day when buying a heating system. Time and time again, they are told to increase the equipment efficiency without regard to whether the duct system is diminishing the total system efficiency through leaks to the outside.

It is a matter of simple math that no one ever explains, which scenario from below would you pick?

80% Furnace with Aeroseal Duct Sealing (Approx Cost $3500)

  • ($1.00 Given to Furnace) x (Furnace Efficiency of 80%)
    = $0.80 Delivered to Ducting
  • ($0.80 Delivered to Ducting) x (3% Duct Leakage After Aerosealing)
    = $0.776 Delivered Into the Home (Not bad…)

95% Furnace without Duct Sealing (Approx Cost $3500)

  • ($1.00 Given to Furnace) x (Furnace Efficiency of 95%)
    = $0.95 Delivered to Ducting
  • ($0.95 Delivered to Ducting) x (33% Average Duct Leakage)
    = $0.627 Delivered Into the Home (Ugh, that’s horrible.)

95% Furnace with Aeroseal Duct Sealing (Approx Cost $5000)

  • ($1.00 Given to Furnace) x (Furnace Efficiency of 95%)
    = $0.95 Delivered to Ducting
  • ($0.95 Delivered to Ducting) x (3% Duct Leakage After Aerosealing)
    = $0.922 Delivered Into the Home (Winning!)

The Moral of the story? It is important to buy the right things for the right reasons.

Posted by Wes Diskin

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Get Your Federal Tax Credits Before 2014!

October 4th, 2013

When you combine these with local rebates $8000 heat pump systems are going for $4080. Ductless Heat Pumps that are $4500 are going for $1800. There has NEVER been a better time to upgrade and the opportunity

We have a full list of available rebates at that offer even more ways to save on improving the comfort and efficiency of your home.

Press Release Jan. 3rd, 2013:

Fiscal cliff avoidance legislation, signed into law by President Obama on January 2, also retroactively reinstated 25C tax credits for highly efficient HVAC and water heating equipment.

  • The bill – among many other tax provisions – extends the HVAC/water heater tax credits that expired in 2011 from Jan.1, 1012, until Dec. 31, 2013. The tax credits cover qualified equipment included in Section 25C of the Internal Revenue Code.
  • The Air-Conditioning, Heating, and Refrigeration Institute (AHRI) explained that, because the credits were made retroactive to Jan. 1, 2012, they apply to qualified equipment installed any time after Dec. 31, 2011. Qualified equipment includes:

Water heaters ($300 tax credit)

  • electric heat pump water heaters with an energy factor of at least 2.0
  • natural gas, propane, or oil water heaters with an energy factor of at least 0.82 or a thermal efficiency of at least

90% Furnaces ($150 tax credit)

  • natural gas, propane, or oil furnaces with an AFUE of at least 95

Boilers ($150 tax credit)

  • natural gas, propane, or oil boilers with an AFUE of at least 95

Air-conditioners and heat pumps ($300 tax credit)

  • split system central air-conditioners with the highest efficiency CEE tier as of Jan. 1, 2009 (16 SEER; 13 EER)
  • packaged central air-conditioners with the highest efficiency CEE tier as of Jan. 1, 2009 (14 SEER; 12 EER)
  •  split system electric heat pumps with the highest efficiency CEE tier as of Jan. 1, 2009 (8.5 HSPF; 12.5 EER; 15 SEER)
  • packaged electric heat pumps with the highest efficiency CEE tier as of Jan. 1, 2009 (8.0 HSPF; 12.0 EER; 14
    SEER)

Advanced main air circulating fan ($50 tax credit)

  • a fan used in a natural gas, propane, or oil furnace with an annual electricity use of no more than 2% of the total
    energy use of the furnace

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What You Gain From An Energy Audit

October 4th, 2013


With qualified and experienced inspectors an energy audit will pinpoint the cause of many problems that lead to an uncomfortable home. Whether its uneven temperatures, bad air quality, or dust problems it is important to look at the home as a system to find the appropriate solution.

There are many important areas to test and analyze for an effective audit on home performance.

  • First is an informative meeting with you, the home owner. There is nobody who knows the experience of living in your home better than you. The inspector should know when and where you experience discomfort throughout your home. Take note of the air quality, consistency of heating, odors, and anything else that you would like to change.
  • Next comes an analysis of your utility bill. Seeing where you have been spending money on energy in the past and present gives you a basis of comparison for future savings and the return on your HVAC investments.
  • The testing begins with a Blower door test. This will help to locate air leakage pathways. Included in this is duct leakage (and repair if necessary). Studies indicate that duct leakage can account for as much as 25% of total house energy loss.
  • By using Infrared Thermography, the most sophisticated analytic tool in energy auditing, wall cavity and ceiling insulation and moisture related issues in your walls can be seen.
  • Moisture Analysis is an often overlooked, but very important step in monitoring the health and durability of you and your home.
  • Its important to analyze flue gas at the hot water heater and other fossil fuel appliances. Combustion Analysis and combustion safety are one of the main focal points in the energy audit and homeowners are often unaware that they have problems with their combustion equipment.
  • The last thing is to look into Weatherization Services. Your energy audit should offer a comprehensive report that will outline the most cost effective path for weatherization work.

Energy audits range in price from $100 up to over $1000. When finding the right provider for this service make sure they offer all of the necessary tests and have the experience and expertise to get you the answers you need.

If you’re interested in an energy audit learn about Barron Heating’s $195 Home & Duct Performance Assessment.

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Water Heater Facts

October 3rd, 2013

What is the average lifetime of a gas water heater?

The average lifetime of gas water heater is 9 years. The range is 5-14 years.

How are FHR and Therms used to compare the efficiency of water heaters?

The first hour rating (FHR) tells you the number of gallons per hour of hot water. Therms relate to the gas consumption of water heater. When you are shopping for hot water heater, compare the energy factor on the energy guide label. FHR and Therms are not sufficient to calculate the energy factor. Also remember to compare water heaters of equal capacity and FHR.

What efficiency standard does a dual use residential water heater need to meet as a water heater or a boiler (used for both potable water and space heating purposes)?

For a dual unit, it must meet the efficiency standard requirements of both applications. Your local building department may have additional requirements for such units.

What is a hot water recirculating system?

A “hot water re-circulating” system usually refers to a domestic hot water system that circulates the heated water through the house continuously so as to eliminate or shorten the delay in hot water reaching the faucet after the user turns it on. These systems are most common in multifamily or large building applications where otherwise the delays would be truly unacceptable. They can be real energy hogs if the pipes aren’t well insulated.

How do I choose the best electric or gas tankless water heater for my home (2300 sq. ft.)?

Sizing of hot water heaters should be based on the number of occupants and their peak hour water demand and not on the size of the house.

Posted by Wes Diskin

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READY FOR THE TEST?

October 1st, 2013

To make the process of having a Home and Duct Performance test as smooth as possible, you can follow the steps below.  Many of the steps can be done in the days leading up to your test while ‘for safety reasons’, you might want to wait unit we arrive (or just before) to handle others.  Hopefully you’re as excited as we are about learning what your house has to tell us about its Health, Comfort & Efficiency.

Watch the video.

  • Visit BarronHeating.com/service to see the 6 minute video that explains the whole home and duct performance test process. Doing this will save us valuable testing time when we are at your home and may answer questions you have.

Take the Comfort Check-up Survey.

  • Also at BarronHeating.com/homeperformancesurvey is a quick 3 minute survey regarding how you experience comfort and air quality at home. The answers you give will allow me to dial in to the opportunities that are most valuable to you as efficiently and effectively as possible.

Locate your electric and natural gas utility account numbers.

  • Your account number may in some cases give us the ability to pre-approve you for certain utility rebates.

Open up all the interior doors.

  • This allows for the natural air flow of all zones of your home during testing.

Clear access to all the registers (aka grilles).

  • In order to measure duct leakage I will need to access all the heat and return registers with a piece of equipment that needs about 2.5 feet of vertical clearance. Any that we can’t get to will be masked off and not used for the test. This will not affect the accuracy of the results.

Check to make sure the filters in your return ducts are relatively clean.

  • These will be located either at the grills in the home or in a box attached to your furnace.

Make sure all windows are closed.

  • We don’t want to measure your house leakage with a hole like that in your wall.

Make sure any wood fireplaces are cleaned out and closed as much as possible.

  • This includes closing the flue.
  • Do not build a fire in the fireplace in the 24 hours before the test.
  • When the house is under pressure, it is possible to pull a small amount of ash or chimney debris into the home if we haven’t properly sealed its path.

Turn all gas appliances, such as fireplaces and wall heaters, to “OFF”.

  • I will take care of the furnace and the water heater if necessary, but you know how to operate the appliances in your home better than I do.

We will be double checking that all these conditions have been met before we begin the testing process, but anything that can be done before we arrive will allow for more time sleuthing and discussing solutions.

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