The first thing you need to watch when researching home performance:
You may now continue your education.
Professor Brown has completed his lecture.
Because James Brown says so…
August 27th, 2014BPI CEO: Kids Suffering in Our Unhealthy Homes
July 1st, 2014Our Homes Suck – And That’s Why Our Kids Have Sinus Problems
By: Larry Zucker (CEO of the Building Performance Institute)
We all know about how stack effect works in homes, but during presentations, I’m always surprised by how many hands are raised in response to the question: “How many of you think you can make a house too tight and cause problems with indoor air quality?” Generally, at least three-quarters of the room raises their hands. Really? My colleague Joe Kuonen says that getting a house so tight that you need to ventilate is a feat worth celebrating. “Now, we can get fresh air from a place we can trust,” he says. Where do most of our homes get their fresh air? From places we cannot trust, like crawl spaces.
What do we know about crawl spaces? Generally, they are dark and wet. This is a perfect habitat for mold, rodents and insects to thrive – and gain access to the house. Those of you who have spent a lot of time in crawl spaces have horror stories about close encounters with both living and dead creatures. Allison Bailes once published a photo of a dead opossum in a crawl space next to a disconnected return duct!
On the other side of the band joist is the basement where the air handling unit often resides. If there is insulation on the band joist, it is generally discolored by filtering air that passes through the crawl space. Thankfully there is a furnace filter, you might say. If you look at most furnace filters in people’s homes, you’ll generally find them clogged and gross. And with the furnace filter slot at the end of the return duct, the furnace filter is protecting the blower motor from the air that everyone in the house has been breathing. This can’t be good for your health.
Why should we care about the quality of indoor air?
Home Performance: More Than an Energy Audit
May 26th, 2014Forward thinkers understand Energy Auditing. An energy auditor looks at your energy useage, your house and prescribes behaviors and equipment that will help bring down your total energy consumption. What most people are confused on is what makes Home Performance different. A recent video by Corbett Lunsford of the Chicago Green Dream Group spells it out beautifully.
He gives his 4-3-2-1 of Home Performance. He says there are 4 Elements to Home Performance:
- Heat Flow: What can I use to make my building more energy efficient or higher performing?
- Airflow & Pressure: Both can cause a myriad of problems in the house including indoor air quality, comfort and energy efficiency.
- Moisture: This will damage a building’s durability faster than anything else, is a major component in poor indoor air quality and can greatly affect comfort as well.
- Indoor Air Quality: If you have respiratory problems caused by poor indoor air, we need to take a step back from energy efficiency until we’ve ensured that the air in your home is safe to breathe.
3 Recommendations:
- Air Sealing (Air Ducts and Home): It is cheap, effective, doesn’t need to be maintained or replaced and uses no energy (zero operating cost!)
- Insulation: Largely ineffective without air sealing first!
- HVAC: Without the first two, replacing a furnace with a more efficient model is akin to driving a Prius on flat tires!
2 Systems in Home:
- Envelope: The Envelope is comprised of the Air Barrier (made complete by Air Sealing any holes), which is the windbreaker for your home and the Insulation, the sweater.
- HVAC: This stands for the Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning systems in your home. Water heating is included.
1 Goal: CONTROL. Energy Efficiency is a result of control.
The kicker here is that the only way to properly demonstrate control of a building is Home Performance Testing. Things you can expect to gain from taking these 3 recommendations (as tailored to your house, concerns and budget) are increased comfort, lower utility bills, better indoor air quality, and a more durable home. You also get confidence in your home performance contractor because they are the only ones that can PROVE the results they promise.
The Most Stringent Building Energy Standard in the World
May 9th, 2014Passive House (Passivhaus in German) is the most stringent building energy efficiency standard in the world. It is not just an energy code or energy design but is integrated with the architectural design of the building to create a wholistic approach to reducing the building’s heating losses and thus decrease the need for expensive mechanical heating equipment. The end result is a house that has a drastically reduced ecological footprint (low carbon emissions), along with superior comfort and indoor air quality.
According to Passive House Alliance United States, buildings that meet this standard use 80 percent less energy than conventional buildings. Specifically this is achieved through maximizing your gains and minimizing your losses. The process begins with strategic design and planning to test “what if” scenarios using certified passive house software. During this process specific climate, siting and sizing is performed to ensure things like windows being positioned to maximize solar gain. Passive house construction uses roughly twice the insulation value of modern code and great care to ensure that the building has no breaks in the thermal envelope. Blower-door air leakage testing is an important component of passive house construction as the standard requires very low leakage to the exterior (0.6 air changes per hour at 50 pascals). Advanced windows and doors are also used to minimize air leakage.
Now that the house is nice and air tight an Energy Recovery Ventilator is used to provide adequate, filtered fresh air for the home. An ERV has the advantage of recycling indoor energy by passing that energy to incoming air further decreasing the heating load on the house. The decreased heating load on the house makes the use of alternative energy to power your building much more attainable and cost effective.
Content from: http://www.phaus.org/learn/passive-house-education/what-is-passive-house-
The Importance of Air Sealing Attic Penetrations
April 30th, 2014 |
| Can light sealing by CAZ Energy Services. Photo: Hunter Hassig |
Many times when homeowners are looking at home improvement solutions for cold spots or high energy bills they think insulation. While insulating your attic and crawl space sub-floor up to code standards is very important for whole home comfort and energy efficiency it is insufficient on its own. This is because in almost every home there are numerous holes in the ceilings that allow air to move freely between your attic space and the conditioned living space of your home. Insulation is a thermal barrier NOT an air barrier. To further illustrate this think of insulation as a sweatshirt. It will keep you warm on a calm day but on a windy one you will need a wind breaker or rain jacket to stay comfortable. Air sealing those holes in your ceiling that lead to the attic creates a consistent, level air barrier that acts as a wind breaker for your home.
Where exactly are these holes? According to The Homeowners’ and Trades Resource Center the three most common areas are wiring penetrations, plumbing penetrations and where your drywall meets up with the framing. Some other trouble areas include soffits, dropped ceilings, chases, vents, exhausts, bath fans, recessed lighting (ie. can lights), and ductwork in your attic. In order to seal small holes like those around bath fans, use silicone caulk or expandable foam. To seal bigger gaps like those found in dropped ceilings and soffits, use rigid foam or drywall (depending on local code) to bring that area to the same level as the rest of the attic and then seal around it with foam or caulk. Sealing these holes will not only save you money on your utility bills but will lead to a more even temperature in the house and many times improve indoor air quality as well.
Some content from: http://blog.sls-construction.com/2011/air-sealing-attic-penetrations
Surprising Facts About Indoor Air Quality
March 24th, 2014![11 surprising facts about indoor air quality [Infographic]](http://www.mnn.com/sites/default/files/user/137915/IndoorAirQuality_infographi.jpg)
Air Ducts: Out of Sight, Out of Mind
March 18th, 2014
Your air ducts are one of the most important systems in your home, and if the ducts are poorly sealed or insulated they are likely contributing to higher energy bills.
Your home’s duct system is a branching network of tubes in the walls, floors, and ceilings; it carries the air from your home’s furnace and central air conditioner to each room. Ducts are made of sheet metal, fiberglass, or other materials.
Ducts that leak heated air into unheated spaces can add hundreds of dollars a year to your heating and cooling bills. Insulating ducts in unconditioned spaces is usually very cost-effective. If you are installing a new duct system, make sure it comes with insulation.
Sealing your ducts to prevent leaks is even more important if the ducts are located in an unconditioned area such as an attic or vented crawlspace. If the supply ducts are leaking, heated or cooled air can be forced out of unsealed joints and lost. In addition, unconditioned air can be drawn into return ducts through unsealed joints.
Although minor duct repairs are easy to make, qualified professionals should seal and insulate ducts in unconditioned spaces to ensure the use of appropriate sealing materials.
MINOR DUCT REPAIR TIPS
- Check your ducts for air leaks. First, look for sections that should be joined but have separated and then look for obvious holes.
- Duct mastic is the preferred material for sealing ductwork seams and joints. It is more durable than any available tape and generally easier for a do-it-yourself installation. Its only drawback is that it will not bridge gaps over ¼ inch. Such gaps must be first bridged with web-type drywall tape or a good quality heat approved tape.
- If you use tape to seal your ducts, avoid cloth-backed, rubber adhesive duct tape — it tends to fail quickly. Instead, use mastic, butyl tape, foil tape, or other heat-approved tapes. Look for tape with the Underwriters Laboratories (UL) logo.
- Remember that insulating ducts in the basement will make the basement colder. If both the ducts and the basement walls are not insulated, consider insulating both. Water pipes and drains in unconditioned spaces could freeze and burst if the heat ducts are fully insulated be-cause there would be no heat source to prevent the space from freezing in cold weather. However, using an electric heating tape wrap on the pipes can prevent this. Check with a professional contractor.
- Hire a professional to install both supply and return registers in the basement rooms after converting your basement to a living area.
- Be sure a well-sealed vapor barrier exists on the outside of the insulation on cooling ducts to prevent moisture condensation.
- If you have a fuel-burning furnace, stove, or other appliance or an attached garage, install a carbon monoxide (CO) monitor to alert you to harmful CO levels.
- Be sure to get professional help when doing ductwork. A qualified professional should always perform changes and repairs to a duct system.
INSTALL A CARBON MONOXIDE DETECTOR
Carbon monoxide (CO) detectors are required in new buildings in many states. They are highly recommended in homes with fuel-burning appliances such as natural gas furnaces, stoves, ovens, water heaters, and space heaters. An alarm signals if CO reaches potentially dangerous levels.
Posted by Wes Diskin
Light Bulb Buying Guide
March 14th, 2014Before energy saving light bulbs were so readily available, we would purchase light bulbs based on how many watts or how much energy they used. With newer light bulbs you can achieve the same level of brightness for while using up to 80% less power. When shopping for bulbs today, look for lumens not watts. Light bulbs usually include a label on the packaging.
On the ‘Lighting Facts’ you will see how many lumens (the measure of brightness), the estimated yearly cost of energy to use this light bulb, the lifespan, and the color tint of the bulb. Warm is a yellowish color, while cool is more blue. You can see that in this example only 13 watts of energy are used, however, if you are used to using 60 watt bulb then this 800 lumens will provide the same amount of light using only 21.7% as much energy.
For more information on buying the right kind of bulb, or lumens-to-watts conversion, check out this informational video.
Sick Building Syndrome
March 11th, 2014
Do you value the health of your employees? More and more office employees are complaining about sick business syndrome (sbs). The EPA defines the term as ” situations in which building occupants experience acute health and comfort effects that appear to be linked to time spent in a building, but no specific illness or cause can be identified. ” Causes and contributing factors can be linked to inadequate ventilation, chemical contaminants from indoor and outdoor sources.
Symptoms include irritated eyes, headaches, inability to concentrate, and lack of energy. Avoiding these symptoms can result in wasted company time and poor quality of life for your employees.
So how do you fix these issues? Talk to a professional about the
symptoms of your building and how best to resolve them.
Everything You Need To Know About Home Heating
February 25th, 2014
Infographic by Sarah Gerrity, Energy Department.
Source: http://energy.gov/articles/energy-saver-101-infographic-home-heating