Barron Heating AC Electrical & Plumbing Blog: Archive for the ‘High Efficiency’ Category

Spring Maintenance Checklist

Monday, March 20th, 2017

Is your house ready for spring?

Man Cleaning Gutters on Ladder

Although this winter has brought us an unusual amount of school-canceling, perilous-driveway-navigating, and downright gloomy weather, spring is inevitable. And while this light at the end of the tunnel may seem miles and miles away, the last thing we want is for the warmer weather to take us (and our house) by surprise.

What are some steps to take towards a smooth spring transition?

Exterior Inspection

While we have the ability to don our heavy-duty rain apparel in wet weather, our houses are outside and without Gortex through rain, wind, sleet, and snow here in the Pacific Northwest. At the end of every winter season  it’s a good idea to do a walkaround of your property and visually inspect your property to catch issues, especially in the following problem areas:

Roof

Your roof takes the brunt of winter weather. You can even do a simple inspection of your roof without stepping on a ladder. If your eyesight isn’t the best, grab a pair of binoculars or even your iPhone camera to zoom in and check for obvious changes. Shingles popping up, buckling, cracking, or just not looking right? Better call in a roofer to tackle things.

Chimney

Although your masonry fireplace may have been cozy in the winter, water damage to your chimney joints can leave your house decidedly un-cozy if not taken care of. If you spot crumbling masonry, vegetation, or a calcium-like buildup on your chimney, you may need to reseal your chimney with a water-resistant barrier.

Gutters

Get rid of those leaves taking up residence in your gutters and downspouts. You wouldn’t want accumulated debris causing water damage to your eaves or trim, or pooling around your foundation, would you? Full gutters may also be inviting to critters who can wreak havoc on your attic space.

Windows

Check to make sure any caulking or weather stripping around your windows is intact and recaulk if needed; a tight seal around your windows will keep leakage to a minimum and will help your heating/cooling system to work more efficiently. It doesn’t hurt to give your windows a solid cleaning as well–but try to avoid harsh chemicals and abrasives when doing so as to not cause damage to the glass, sills, frames, or screens.

Deck and Porches

Decks, patios, porches, stairs and railings may need special attention after a long and wet winter. Check to make sure there is no warping, discoloration, splintering, loose boards or accumulated debris. Wood decks and fences should also be treated every 4-6 years, if the stain doesn’t look like it should or water has turned some of the wood a dark grey, hire a deck professional to treat your deck and fence.

Landscape

Trim vegetation back from structures; errant limbs and leaves can leave marks in your home’s paint and may require time and money to fix. You can also start planning or executing projects–like gardens, ponds, walkways, or any other landscaping changes you’d like to make on your property so that you’re not behind come summer.

Interior Upkeep

Bust out the Dustbuster, unearth the mop, and take a deep breath: spring is in the air. Or is that just the smell of Lemon Pledge? Cleaning up around the house is a great way to usher in a new season and get us ready for warmer weather. Now that the outside of our house is taken care of, what’s on the list for the inside?

General Cleaning

Here’s where that Pledge may come in handy. Doing a sweep of the house and cleaning the oft neglected things–dusty nooks and crannies, window coverings, tops of cabinets, ceiling fans, backsplashes, etc.–will not only make things look nicer, it was also improve your indoor air quality (IAQ) by eliminating some pesky allergens like dust and pet dander.

Read: Got Dust? The Spots You May Be Missing

Air Conditioner Maintenance

Speaking of limiting allergens–making sure your air conditioner is running smoothly and efficiently is an excellent way to keep you and your home healthy. You should change the filter, check hose connections for leaks, and make sure the drain pans are draining freely. You can always schedule a maintenance appointment with a professional if you suspect your unit is not functioning properly.

Attic Inspection

Mold, insects, and mice–oh no! Inspect your attic and crawl spaces to make sure none of these invasive issues have made your home <their home. The right ventilation and insulation will deter mold or pests from colonizing further (especially in the warmer months to come). If you’re not comfortable doing this yourself, bringing in a professional may be necessary to fully assess the situation.

Read: 10 Things You Don’t Know Are in Your Crawlspace

Basement Care

Much like your attic, your basement requires special seasonal attention as well. Basements are prone to dampness and insects and need to be ventilated properly. If you spot cracks in poured-concrete walls, find insect tunnels in any wood framing, or suspect other issues, you may need to call in a professional to keep your basement safe.

A new season means a new list of maintenance projects. Stay ahead of the curve by checking in with your home and catching potential issues before they get out of hand and cost you serious time and money. While many aspects of this list can be done by you, the homeowner, there are professionals to help you assess situations and perform more in-depth maintenance if need be. What’s on your spring cleaning list?

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Go Geothermal

Tuesday, February 21st, 2017

Looking for an efficient, cost effective, and environmentally friendly heating/cooling system? A geothermal heat pump is the greenest way to go.

The basics

Even though the air temperature fluctuates a significant amount over the seasons, the ground absorbs nearly half the suns energy, keeping a more consistent temp under the surface. Geothermal heat pumps take advantage of this fact by employing earth loops– usually closed-system loops made of piping– to tap into stable underground temperatures and deliver heat or cooling when you need it.

These systems work by circulating an antifreeze solution in the loop between the ground source heat pump and your house, exchanging heat and distributing it through a conventional duct system to heat or cool your house.

Geothermal heating

It’s winter and the air outside is at its coldest. A geothermal heat pump system easily absorbs ground heat from the abundant supply stored below your home, and consumes less energy than a traditional pump system in the process.

Geothermal cooling

When warm summer weather rolls around, a geothermal heating and cooling system absorbs heat from your home and transfers it to the underground loop where it is then absorbed by the cooler earth. The geothermal heat pump uses the cool water returning from the ground to create cool, dehumidified air conditioning for your home.

Different kinds of loops

Depending on what your unique space and lifestyle requires, different kinds of earth loops may be installed.

Horizontal Loops Horizontal Loops
Often used when adequate land surface is available. Depending on geothermal system needs and space available, pipes are placed in trenches that range in length from 100 to 400 feet.

Vertical Loops Vertical Loops
The ideal choice for a geothermal heat pump when available land surface is limited. Well drilling equipment is used to bore small-diameter holes from 100 to 400 feet deep.

Pond (Lake) Loops Pond (Lake) Loops
Very economical to install when a large body of water is available for use by the geothermal heating and cooling system. Coils of pipe are simply placed on the bottom of the pond or lake to capture the geothermal energy.

Open loops (Well-Water Systems) Open loops (Well-Water Systems)
In ideal conditions, an open-loop application can be the most economical type of geothermal system. These use groundwater from a well as a direct energy source.

Images and descriptions via waterfurnace.com

Fun facts

  • An EPA study of energy efficiency concluded geothermal energy is the most environmentally friendly heating/cooling system.
  • The United States National Renewable Energy Laboratory concluded that geothermal energy is more efficient and cost-effective compared with conventional residential systems.
  • Available everywhere in the United States, geothermal energy can be found underground virtually anywhere.
  • Geothermal cost savings can be increased by geothermal energy incentives, available from federal, state, local, and utility sources.

Cost comparison

Energy and cost savings of geothermal heat pumps will vary by region and type of conventional system they’re compared with. But the energy cost of geothermal versus conventional HVAC systems will always be lower — and the geothermal system will always be greener.

Click to enlarge.

How much can you save in energy costs with a geothermal system? Calculate your home’s potential geothermal system cost savings

Looking for more information? Check out energy.gov for further resources: https://energy.gov/energysaver/geothermal-heat-pumps 

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How important is a “Home Energy Checkup”?

Wednesday, January 20th, 2016

Only if you believe that a “leaky home” can waste money

And you should! Whether you are heating or cooling your home, leaky homes can waste your hard-earned dollars!

The best way to evaluate your home is to have it professionally tested. Home energy assessments, home energy audits and home energy check-ups are all pretty much the same thing. The important element is to choose the right type of professional contractor to perform any one of these evaluations of your home.

As explained in this video from the U.S. Department of Energy, a home energy checkup is a series of tests and inspections to help determine how your home can be more efficient. Finding the source of inefficiencies in the home will help you understand how you could be wasting money. It is common to find problems in most homes like:

  1. insulation
  2. trap doors/access doors to attics
  3. lighting
  4. appliances
  5. dirty filters
  6. leaky duct work
  7. airflow and sources of air leakage in the home

The good news is that all of these problems areas can be fixed! Many times, homeowners are tricked into purchasing new heating or cooling systems that can cost thousands of dollars. But it is quite common that a new system is not what the homeowner needs. What’s worse is that the new system will not operate as efficiently as expected because the true source of inefficiencies in the home have not been addressed. It is common that homeowners can save more money in the long run by doing a little bit of investigative work on the front end.

So why wait until those energy bills start adding up?

You may also be interested in:
Solving Drafts (and Other Common Problems) with Duct Repairs
The Importance of Sealing Attic Penetrations 

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The Most Stringent Building Energy Standard in the World

Friday, May 9th, 2014

Passive House (Passivhaus in German) is the most stringent building energy efficiency standard in the world.  It is not just an energy code or energy design but is integrated with the architectural design of the building to create a wholistic approach to reducing the building’s heating losses and thus decrease the need for expensive mechanical heating equipment.  The end result is a house that has a drastically reduced ecological footprint (low carbon emissions), along with superior comfort and indoor air quality.

According to Passive House Alliance United States, buildings that meet this standard use 80 percent less energy than conventional buildings.  Specifically this is achieved through maximizing your gains and minimizing your losses.  The process begins with strategic design and planning to test “what if” scenarios using certified passive house software.  During this process specific climate, siting and sizing is performed to ensure things like windows being positioned to maximize solar gain.  Passive house construction uses roughly twice the insulation value of modern code and great care to ensure that the building has no breaks in the thermal envelope.  Blower-door air leakage testing is an important component of passive house construction as the standard requires very low leakage to the exterior (0.6 air changes per hour at 50 pascals).  Advanced windows and doors are also used to minimize air leakage.

Now that the house is nice and air tight an Energy Recovery Ventilator is used to provide adequate, filtered fresh air for the home.  An ERV has the advantage of recycling indoor energy by passing that energy to incoming air further decreasing the heating load on the house.  The decreased heating load on the house makes the use of alternative energy to power your building much more attainable and cost effective.

Content from: http://www.phaus.org/learn/passive-house-education/what-is-passive-house-

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Understanding Efficiency Ratings of Furnaces

Thursday, July 18th, 2013

A central furnace or boiler’s efficiency is measured by annual fuel utilization efficiency (AFUE). The Federal Trade Commission requires new furnaces or boilers to display their AFUE so consumers can compare heating efficiencies of various models. AFUE is a measure of how efficient the appliance is in the energy in its fuel over the course of a typical year.

Specifically, AFUE is the ratio of heat output of the furnace or boiler compared to the total energy consumed by a furnace or boiler. An AFUE of 90% means that 90% of the energy in the fuel becomes heat for the home and the other 10% escapes up the chimney and elsewhere. AFUE doesn’t include the heat losses of the duct system or piping, which can be as much as 35% of the energy for output of the furnace when ducts are located in the attic.

An all-electric furnace or boiler has no flue loss through a chimney. The AFUE rating for an all-electric furnace or boiler is between 95% and 100%. The lower values are for units installed outdoors because they have greater jacket heat loss. However, despite their high efficiency, the higher cost of electricity in most parts of the country makes all-electric furnaces or boilers an uneconomic choice. If you are interested in electric heating, consider installing a heat pump system.

The minimum allowed AFUE rating for a non-condensing fossil-fueled, warm-air furnace is 78%; the minimum rating for a fossil-fueled boiler is 80%; and the minimum rating for a gas-fueled steam boiler is 75%. A condensing furnace or boiler condenses the water vapor produced in the combustion process and uses the heat from this condensation. The AFUE rating for a condensing unit can be much higher (by more than 10 percentage points) than a non-condensing furnace. Although condensing units cost more than non-condensing units, the condensing unit can save you money in fuel costs over the 15- to 20-year life of the unit, and is a particularly wise investment in cold climates.

You can identify and compare a system’s efficiency by not only its AFUE but also by its equipment features, listed below.

Old, low-efficiency heating systems:

  • Natural draft that creates a flow of combustion gases
  • Continuous pilot light
  • Heavy heat exchanger
  • 68%–72% AFUE

Mid-efficiency heating systems:

  • Exhaust fan controls the flow of combustion air and combustion gases more precisely
  • Electronic ignition (no pilot light)
  • Compact size and lighter weight to reduce cycling losses
  • Small-diameter flue pipe
  • 80%–83% AFUE

High-efficiency heating systems:

  • Condensing flue gases in a second heat exchanger for extra efficiency
  • Sealed combustion
  • 90%–97% AFUE

Posted by Wes Diskin

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Understanding Efficiency Ratings of Furnaces

Thursday, March 21st, 2013

A central furnace or boiler’s efficiency is measured by annual fuel utilization efficiency (AFUE). The Federal Trade Commission requires new furnaces or boilers to display their AFUE so consumers can compare heating efficiencies of various models. AFUE is a measure of how efficient the appliance is in the energy in its fuel over the course of a typical year.

Specifically, AFUE is the ratio of heat output of the furnace or boiler compared to the total energy consumed by a furnace or boiler. An AFUE of 90% means that 90% of the energy in the fuel becomes heat for the home and the other 10% escapes up the chimney and elsewhere. AFUE doesn’t include the heat losses of the duct system or piping, which can be as much as 35% of the energy for output of the furnace when ducts are located in the attic.

An all-electric furnace or boiler has no flue loss through a chimney. The AFUE rating for an all-electric furnace or boiler is between 95% and 100%. The lower values are for units installed outdoors because they have greater jacket heat loss. However, despite their high efficiency, the higher cost of electricity in most parts of the country makes all-electric furnaces or boilers an uneconomic choice. If you are interested in electric heating, consider installing a heat pump system.

The minimum allowed AFUE rating for a non-condensing fossil-fueled, warm-air furnace is 78%; the minimum rating for a fossil-fueled boiler is 80%; and the minimum rating for a gas-fueled steam boiler is 75%. A condensing furnace or boiler condenses the water vapor produced in the combustion process and uses the heat from this condensation. The AFUE rating for a condensing unit can be much higher (by more than 10 percentage points) than a non-condensing furnace. Although condensing units cost more than non-condensing units, the condensing unit can save you money in fuel costs over the 15- to 20-year life of the unit, and is a particularly wise investment in cold climates.

You can identify and compare a system’s efficiency by not only its AFUE but also by its equipment features, listed below.

Old, low-efficiency heating systems:

  • Natural draft that creates a flow of combustion gases
  • Continuous pilot light
  • Heavy heat exchanger
  • 68%–72% AFUE

Mid-efficiency heating systems:

  • Exhaust fan controls the flow of combustion air and combustion gases more precisely
  • Electronic ignition (no pilot light)
  • Compact size and lighter weight to reduce cycling losses
  • Small-diameter flue pipe
  • 80%–83% AFUE

High-efficiency heating systems:

  • Condensing flue gases in a second heat exchanger for extra efficiency
  • Sealed combustion
  • 90%–97% AFUE

Posted by Wes Diskin

Continue Reading