Variable Speed Blowers Explained!

August 31st, 2013

The best place to start may be “what is variable speed?”

“For any furnace, providing maximum comfort means achieving the proper amount of airflow. This is true for both heating and cooling operations. Unlike conventional single speed motors, a variable speed motor runs at a wide range of speeds. Using intelligent technology, it continually monitors incoming data from your heating and cooling system, and it automatically makes the adjustments necessary to meet your comfort needs. The motor varies the amount of air circulated, compensating for factors like dirty filters by increasing speed. Put simply, it delivers just the right amount of air necessary to provide the desired level of heating and cooling comfort.” Danny Heineman

As you will see in the chart above, this feature enhances every part of your heating and cooling system. Both Comfort and Savings, even your Health, is affected by having a variable speed blower in your furnace or air handler. The easiest way to explain all this is going to be by taking these one at a time, so get ready.

We will start with the most important of the three, which may not be the one you would expect. It is your Health. There is an insane amount of data that will back up my claim, but all you need to know is that while you can see “dust” in the air and settled on surfaces, about 99% of the particles in the air are smaller than 1 micron (1 millionth of a meter). The human eye can only see particles bigger than 10 microns in size. So next time you are looking at all the dust in your air when the sun is shining in your window, think, “Wow, that is only 1%?!” and then call me.

How variable speed effects your health is really very simple. Tell me, what is your furnace doing when it is 68 degrees out side? That’s right, nothing. What is your filter doing while your furnace is doing nothing? More nothing. That is where variable speed comes in; when the furnace is not heating or cooling and the fan in is constant operation, a variable speed furnace will continue to slowly and inexpensively circulate air throughout your home. This allows your filters to capture more contaminants (because air is constantly passing through them), so you can breathe easier.

*Note: I have a Carrier Variable Speed Furnace with the Carrier Air Purifier, read my experience on the What’s in My Home page.

From a Comfort stand point, variable is a god send. Literally, a gift to man sent from heaven. The hilarious thing is that it is just so simple. The element that it all boils down to is constant air flow, period. That is it. Most people do not turn on their fan 24/7 because they believe it will cost them a lot of money (on a standard blower they are correct) and more often than not, it is just too loud. What variable blowers do is ramp the blower down so you do not notice it running, nor does it cost you any more money than standard furnace operation.

Sorry, back to Comfort. Here is what variable speed will do by providing constant air flow. The greatest thing is the even heating and cooling you get. Instead of having the upstairs hot and downstairs cold, variable combines those two environments to create an equal and balanced air temperature. When I turn off my fan in my home the upstairs will generally be about 7-8 degrees warmer than my downstairs; once I turn it back on, the spread becomes 1 degree if not the same!

It also solves the age old issue of Cold Blow. This is the burst of cold air that comes from the ducts before the hot air gets to you, just like the cold water at your faucet. Well, just like plumbers have circulation pumps that keep hot water in the pipes at all times so when you turn on the faucet you just get hot water, we do the same thing with variable speed. When the furnace turns on, the ducts are already tempered with warm air flowing through them constantly, so you do not feel that blast of cold air in between heating cycles!

Next is Savings. Not only is the blower itself more efficient at about 8-10x that of a standard blower, but it makes everything it is attached to more efficient as well. You will consistently get better efficiency ratings on heat pumps and air conditioners that are attached to a variable speed system. Not only that, your furnace will operate better and your filters work harder for you.

Perhaps the most abstract, but exciting, feature that variable speed offers is the use of latent BTUs to evenly heat your home. When you touch a light bulb it is hot, your audio/video system is hot, your refrigerator pumps out heat like crazy, and you emit 400 BTUs per hour yourself, not to mention Solar heat gain! Just think if there was a way to take all that heat being generated and distribute it all throughout the house, creating less need for your heating system to turn on! Of course, you know the answer.

Posted by Wes Diskin

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Decoding Furnace Efficiencies

August 22nd, 2013

A forced air furnace or boiler’s efficiency is measured by annual fuel utilization efficiency (AFUE). The Federal Trade Commission requires new furnaces or boilers to display their AFUE so consumers can compare heating efficiencies of various models. AFUE is a measure of how efficient the appliance is in the energy in its fuel over the course of a typical year.

Specifically, AFUE is the ratio of heat output of the furnace or boiler compared to the total energy consumed by a furnace or boiler. An AFUE of 90% means that 90% of the energy in the fuel becomes heat for the home and the other 10% escapes up the chimney and elsewhere. AFUE doesn’t include the heat losses of the duct system or piping, which can be as much as 35% of the energy for output of the furnace when ducts are located in the attic.

An all-electric furnace or boiler has no flue loss through a chimney. The AFUE rating for an all-electric furnace or boiler is between 95% and 100%. The lower values are for units installed outdoors because they have greater jacket heat loss. However, despite their high efficiency, the higher cost of electricity in most parts of the country makes all-electric furnaces or boilers an uneconomic choice. If you are interested in electric heating, consider installing a heat pump system.

The minimum allowed AFUE rating for a non-condensing fossil-fueled, warm-air furnace is 78%; the minimum rating for a fossil-fueled boiler is 80%; and the minimum rating for a gas-fueled steam boiler is 75%. A condensing furnace or boiler condenses the water vapor produced in the combustion process and uses the heat from this condensation. The AFUE rating for a condensing unit can be much higher (by more than 10 percentage points) than a non-condensing furnace. Although condensing units cost more than non-condensing units, the condensing unit can save you money in fuel costs over the 15- to 20-year life of the unit, and is a particularly wise investment in cold climates. If your current furnace is aging, you may want to explore when it’s time to replace your furnace to ensure you’re not overpaying for inefficient heating.

You can identify and compare a system’s efficiency by not only its AFUE but also by its equipment features, listed below.

Old, low-efficiency heating systems:

  • Natural draft that creates a flow of combustion gases
  • Continuous pilot light
  • Heavy heat exchanger
  • 68%–72% AFUE

Mid-efficiency heating systems:

  • Exhaust fan controls the flow of combustion air and combustion gases more precisely
  • Electronic ignition (no pilot light)
  • Compact size and lighter weight to reduce cycling losses
  • Small-diameter flue pipe
  • 80%–83% AFUE

They provide better efficiency than outdated systems, but they may not deliver the same long-term energy savings as high-efficiency models. If you’re debating whether to replace your furnace, upgrading to at least a mid-efficiency system could help lower your heating bills without the higher upfront cost of a top-tier unit.

High-efficiency heating systems:

  • Condensing flue gases in a second heat exchanger for extra efficiency
  • Sealed combustion
  • 90%–97% AFUE

While they come with a higher initial price, the long-term fuel savings and potential rebates make them a smart investment. If you’re considering an upgrade, now is a great time to take advantage of furnace replacement savings to offset costs and improve your home’s energy efficiency.

Posted by Wes Diskin

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Selecting Heating Fuel and System Types

August 1st, 2013

Selecting the fuel and heating system best suited for your needs depends on the following factors:

  • The cost and availability of the fuel or energy source
  • The type of appliance used to convert that fuel to heat and how the heat is distributed in your house
  • The cost to purchase, install, and maintain the heating appliance
  • The heating appliance’s and heat delivery system’s efficiency
  • The environmental impacts associated with the heating fuel.

Fuel Costs

One somewhat simple way to evaluate heating options is to compare the cost of the fuel. To do that, you have to know the energy content of the fuel and the efficiency by which it is converted to useful heat.

Fuels are measured in physical units, such as gallons of oil or propane, cubic feet of natural gas, or kilowatt hours of electricity (kWh). They are also measured by heat content. In the United States, the most commonly used value for expressing the energy value or heat content of a fuel is the British thermal unit (Btu). One Btu is the amount of energy needed to raise the temperature of one pound of water 1°F, when water is at about 39°F. One “therm” is 100,000 Btu.

The chart below provides a list of typical heating fuels and the Btu content in the units that they are typically sold in the United States.

Fuel Type                 No. of Btu/Unit

Fuel Oil (No. 2)        140,000/gallon

Electricity                  3,412/kWh

Natural Gas               1,025,000/thousand cubic feet

Propane                      91,330/gallon

Wood (air dried)*      20,000,000/cord or 8,000/pound

Pellets                        16,500,000/ton

Kerosene                    135,000/gallon

Coal                           28,000,000/ton

The efficiency of the heating appliance is an important factor when determining the cost of a given amount of heat. In general, the efficiency is determined by measuring how well an appliance turns fuel into useful heat. (The condition of the heat distribution or delivery system also affects the overall system efficiency.) Many types of space heating appliances must meet minimum standards for efficiency developed by the U.S. Department of Energy. This next chart provides average efficiencies for common heating appliances.

Environmental and Efficiency Considerations

In addition to cost, you might consider the environmental impact of your heating fuel. You probably generate more greenhouse gases by heating and cooling your home than by any other activity, including driving.
Burning natural gas, oil, propane, wood, or pellets in your home with a high-efficiency furnace or boiler can be a very efficient way to deliver heat to your home. Of all these choices, natural gas burns cleanest.
In the NW, due to hydro power, using a heat pump is one of the most cost effective and clean ways to heat your home.

Of course, the cleanest fuel for heating your home is solar energy, which produces no pollution at all. In most homes, solar energy will merely supplement the main heating and cooling source, although many are building homes that aim to consume net zero energy over the course of a year.

Choosing a Heating and Cooling System

When choosing a heating and cooling system, there is no one answer; it’s largely a personal choice. For existing systems, your choices are pretty much set by the limitations of replacing the system with something significantly different. But for a new home, if your building contractor doesn’t impose limitations, the choices are wide open.

Choosing between systems depends in part on your fuel options, but also on your preferences. Here are some questions you might consider:

  • Do you want a central air conditioning system? If so, are any heat pump options—particularly geothermal heat pumps—practical for your home?
  • If you don’t want central air conditioning, could a baseboard hot water system or a radiant heating system meet your needs?
  • If you need to cool your home but don’t want a central air conditioning system, could a room air conditioner, or a ductless mini-split system meet your needs?

Answering these questions, and exploring the information in the heating, cooling, and heat pump sections of this Web site, should lead you to an answer

Posted by Wes Diskin

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Understanding Heat Pump Efficiency

July 23rd, 2013

Heat pumps can be much more efficiency than other systems. Here in the Northwest, a heat pump can have an efficiency starting at 300%, while electric heating systems have an efficiency of 100%. Oil heat systems range in efficiency from 50% to 85%. Natural gas systems range in efficiency from 50% to 95%.

The efficiency of a heat pump is indicated by Coefficient of Performance or COP. The COP is the ratio of what you get in heat energy from the heat pump divided by what you pay for in electric energy to provide that heat. For example, a COP of 3.0 means for every dollar’s worth of heat delivered to your home, you only need to buy $0.33 worth of electricity. With standard heat pumps, as the outdoor temperature decreases, the efficiency and COP of a heat pump decreases. When the outdoor air temperature is 47 degrees, many heat pumps work with COPs in the range of 3 to 3.8. At 17 degrees, COPs are typically 2.8 to 3.4. The higher the COP, the more efficient the heat pump.

In the Pacific NW, a properly sized and well-installed heat pump will have an average COP of 2.75 over the course of a heating season. (Based on Base Model Efficiency)

There are other factors which reduce the efficiency of a heat pump throughout the heating season. For instance, a heat pump’s outdoor coils periodically need to be defrosted. This is done by reversing the cycle of the heat pump so that the heat from the house thaws the ice accumulated on the coils.

Efficiency is further reduced whenever the back-up heating system is used. This back-up system can be electric, natural gas or oil and is required during times when the outside temperature is so low that the heat pump is not able to provide enough heat for the house. This is called the balance point.

Heat pumps are also rated by a measurement call the Heating Seasonal Performance Factor (HSPF), which estimates the heat output relative to the energy consumed for the entire heating season. The higher the HSPF the less energy you will need to operate the heat pump. An HSPF of 8 corresponds approximately to an average COP of 3.

Posted by Wes Diskin

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Understanding Efficiency Ratings of Furnaces

July 18th, 2013

A central furnace or boiler’s efficiency is measured by annual fuel utilization efficiency (AFUE). The Federal Trade Commission requires new furnaces or boilers to display their AFUE so consumers can compare heating efficiencies of various models. AFUE is a measure of how efficient the appliance is in the energy in its fuel over the course of a typical year.

Specifically, AFUE is the ratio of heat output of the furnace or boiler compared to the total energy consumed by a furnace or boiler. An AFUE of 90% means that 90% of the energy in the fuel becomes heat for the home and the other 10% escapes up the chimney and elsewhere. AFUE doesn’t include the heat losses of the duct system or piping, which can be as much as 35% of the energy for output of the furnace when ducts are located in the attic.

An all-electric furnace or boiler has no flue loss through a chimney. The AFUE rating for an all-electric furnace or boiler is between 95% and 100%. The lower values are for units installed outdoors because they have greater jacket heat loss. However, despite their high efficiency, the higher cost of electricity in most parts of the country makes all-electric furnaces or boilers an uneconomic choice. If you are interested in electric heating, consider installing a heat pump system.

The minimum allowed AFUE rating for a non-condensing fossil-fueled, warm-air furnace is 78%; the minimum rating for a fossil-fueled boiler is 80%; and the minimum rating for a gas-fueled steam boiler is 75%. A condensing furnace or boiler condenses the water vapor produced in the combustion process and uses the heat from this condensation. The AFUE rating for a condensing unit can be much higher (by more than 10 percentage points) than a non-condensing furnace. Although condensing units cost more than non-condensing units, the condensing unit can save you money in fuel costs over the 15- to 20-year life of the unit, and is a particularly wise investment in cold climates.

You can identify and compare a system’s efficiency by not only its AFUE but also by its equipment features, listed below.

Old, low-efficiency heating systems:

  • Natural draft that creates a flow of combustion gases
  • Continuous pilot light
  • Heavy heat exchanger
  • 68%–72% AFUE

Mid-efficiency heating systems:

  • Exhaust fan controls the flow of combustion air and combustion gases more precisely
  • Electronic ignition (no pilot light)
  • Compact size and lighter weight to reduce cycling losses
  • Small-diameter flue pipe
  • 80%–83% AFUE

High-efficiency heating systems:

  • Condensing flue gases in a second heat exchanger for extra efficiency
  • Sealed combustion
  • 90%–97% AFUE

Posted by Wes Diskin

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Home Is Where The Heart Is

July 14th, 2013

Home improvements don’t have to be expensive and drastic to make a difference in your home. Make a happier home with small changes that make a big impact.

Adding in new pieces of furniture, tweaking the lighting and tossing a blanket on the couch are all simple ideas that can make your home a more comfortable place to be. These changes create an opportunity to bring more beauty into your home.

To make the change most relevant to you, decide which room or area of your house is your favorite place to be. Is it your bed? Your kitchen? Patio?

If its your bed, pick out pillows and blankets that have it feeling like heaven. Home Beautiful offers 5 Tips for Choosing Bed Linens . Even if you make these changes one-by-one you will notice the difference, whether it be through comfort or aesthetics.

If you’re a wiz in the kitchen, put up your favorite art or bring in comfy furniture.  In another Home Beautiful article you will find 10 Interior Designers Share Their Kitchen Style. Each designer’s advice is to accommodate your personal style and needs depending on the function of the space.

It doesn’t stop with the inside of your house; Add a fire pit and twinkling lights to your backyard, take the time to do some landscaping, put up colorful shades in the guest bedroom. Whatever your project may be remember the home is where the heart is, so bring the things you love the most into your home.

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‘Right Sizing’ Heat Pumps for the Pacific Northwest

July 12th, 2013

Sizing is one of the most important factors determining a heat pump’s efficiency and reliability. In Western Washington, heat pumps are sized according to the heating requirements of your home. If you lived in a climate where heat pumps are primarily used for air conditioning, then you homes cooling needs would determine the size of the heat pump.

In order to determine size, we must do a heat loss for your home as well as analyse your home’s duct sizing to determine air circulation requirements. For a proper installation these calculations must be done. This helps us “balance” the system to ensure that the heat pump delivers the correct amount of air to all rooms in the house.

Heat pumps are sized in two ways; tone and BTUs. Tons do not refer to the weight of the heat but rather are a measure of cooling capacity. Each ton of heat pump capacity produces about 12,000 BTUs of heat. A BTU is a measure of heat output; most heat pumps are in the 24,000 to 60,000 BTU range or 2 to 5 ton range.

As the temperature outside drops, the ability of most heat pump systems (except inverter) to deliver heat also drops somewhat and the heat needs of the house go up. It is possible to install a system large enough to heat the house no matter how low the temperature is outside. But a system which is sized to heat your home during the coldest day of the year will be over sized the rest of the year. This is not only uneconomical, but also places unnecessary stress on the compressor because the heat pump cycles on and off constantly.

In the Pacific NW’s maritime climate, a heat pump should be sized so that it can heat the house when outside temperatures are as low as 30 degrees, below that you will need to invest in a 2-stage or Modulating Heat Pump.

Posted by Wes Diskin

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Three Grades of Radiant Floor Installation

June 19th, 2013

Radiant heat has long been touted as the what’s what of heating. In many custom homes it is the one thing that the new homeowners are the most proud of. Not only has it become the signature system for ultimate comfort, but it is also a buzz word that many have cashed in on by installing what can only be described as “ghetto radiant”; which has inspired me to bring you this article.

The first of these grades is what I call “ghetto radiant”. This is the use of a traditional hot water tank system to heat the water that is run through the floors.

The worst part is that the water going into the floor is brought back to your water tank and then you are free to use it to wash your dishes or take a shower in. Some authorities permit this so long as the heater is used for both domestic and space heating. However, water heaters used for radiant space heating operate in the temperature range where bacteria, such as Legionella, develop.

To prevent this, the water heater must be run continuously in the range of 140 degrees Fahrenheit or higher, and the radiant system must be cycled periodically, regardless of the need for heating. This operating temperature then forces the use of scald protection valves on the domestic side and mixing valves on the heating side. As is often the case, trying to make the systems more affordable and simpler actually results in more complications and hazards.

Also, this type of radiant heat often relies on fresh air vents in the windows to bring in cold, un-tempered air by installing a timer on a fan in the utility room. Translation: Bare –bones, but to code, ventilation that will lead to the stalest air you have ever tasted. Most of these systems are only one zone, so balancing the in-floor loops and getting even heat throughout the house is a nightmare. My family and I lived in one of these homes for one year while our house was being built; let me just say I feel sorry for the next tenant! Being a heating expert and not being able to do any upgrades also drove me nuts, but I digress.

The second level is the “tank less two step”. This would be similar to the “ghetto”, but instead of a horribly inefficient standard hot water tank, it will come with a high efficiency on-demand water heater, such as a Rinnai. The installation of the floor loops and ventilation may stay the same, so while you gain some efficiency; this type is really a wolf in sheep’s clothing. Tank less water heaters, such as a Rinnai, were meant for heating domestic hot water, not your house. When they are used in this application, the manufacturer cuts all your warranties in half, which isn’t really a great sign.

The third level can be best described as, well, the “Right Way”. I don’t have anything clever for this one; let’s just say it leads to happiness and satisfaction. What you have here is a high efficiency heat source such as a wall mount boiler (not water heater) or heat pump that heats the water for the radiant system and domestic hot water, however, this is a closed loop application so the water in the system never touches the water you shower in! Almost all of these applications are heavily zoned to give you maximum comfort control in every living space of the home. Domestic water is heated in an indestructible in-direct fired water tank (heat exchanger) and Ventilation is provided through a Heat Recovery or Energy Recovery Ventilator so all fresh air coming into the house is both filtered and then heated by stale air leaving the house.

One of the most important decisions you can make is choosing the heating company that will install your system. We are generally always high when it comes to install compared to most of our competitors, but it is not just dollars. We have the highest paid technicians, the highest level of design credentials, the highest level of customer satisfaction, the largest service department and the best guarantee, your 100% satisfaction!

It is very important that when you are shopping for a home or building one with radiant heating, you ask about these three simple things.

  • Heat Source – Is it a water tank, on-demand water heater, boiler or heat pump? What efficiency?
  • Zoning – Single Zone or Multiple Zoning?
  • Ventilation – Window/Wall Ports or HRV/ERV?

Posted by Wes Diskin

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Introduction to AeroSeal and Duct Repair

June 12th, 2013

Why are finding Air Duct Leaks important?

You can see a water leak, but an air leak is invisible. Duct leaks can be difficult and costly to find with ductwork hidden between the walls, floors, and ceilings of any residential home or commercial building. The older, traditional use of mastic (a messy caulk-like substance) or taping of leaks not only is less effective than Aeroseal, but also can be very labor-intensive and expensive and can only be applied to ducts with physical access. Other substances break down over time, but the Aeroseal sealant does not and even has a 10 year WARRANTY to back it up.

Do-it-yourselfers might attempt their own fixes, but what about those ducts you or your HVAC specialist can’t see or access? Let Aeroseal handle the entire job and you won’t be tearing up your home or worried about incomplete seals. Aeroseal pinpoints and covers leaks, in roughly an hour, from the inside out with a success rate of up to 98%. Aeroseal is the most effective, affordable, and viable method of sealing air duct leaks on the market.

The measured result of a typical Aeroseal air duct sealing process is shown below:

  • Aeroseal can reduce duct leakage by up to 97%, reduce your energy use by up to 45%.
  • Aeroseal has also been shown to dramatically improve comfort and homeowner satisfaction with their heating and cooling systems.
  • Leaky ducts in a residential home contribute to:
  • Loss of cool and warm conditioned air to the outside or unconditioned spaces of your home resulting in high energy bills
  • Even the most energy-efficient heating and cooling systems not performing at its best
  • Forcing your system to work harder and wear out sooner, costing you yet more money
  • Excess humidity levels that can lead to costly home repairs
  • Hard to heat or cool rooms leading to discomfort
  • Musty odors and other indoor air quality (IAQ) issues

What are the benefits?

  • Airtight savings: The money formerly leaking out of your ducts will stay in your pocket longer
  • Airtight comfort: Your hard to heat or cool rooms will have more even temperatures and be more comfortable
  • Improved air quality: You will see a reduction in dust and humidity, along with fumes and other odors
  • Reaches everywhere: Seals leaks nearly impossible to reach using other methods
  • You’ll be a small part of a bigger solution: A reduction of the amount of air pollution created from generating less energySolve your building air flow and ventilation problems

Posted by Wes Diskin

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Common Questions About Duct Cleaning

June 12th, 2013

Are there any health benefits that come from HVAC system cleaning

Heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) systems have been shown to act as a collection source for a variety of contaminants that have the potential to affect health, such as mold, fungi, bacteria, and very small particles of dust. The removal of such contaminants from the HVAC system and home should be considered as one component in an overall plan to improve indoor air quality.

Will HVAC system cleaning reduce our home energy bills?

Research by the U.S. EPA has demonstrated that HVAC system cleaning may allow systems to run more efficiently by removing debris from sensitive mechanical components. Clean, efficient systems are less likely to break down, have a longer life span, and generally operate more effectively than dirty systems.

How should a residential HVAC system be cleaned?
The most effective way to clean air ducts and ventilation systems is to employ Source Removal methods of cleaning. This requires a contractor to place the system under negative pressure, through the use of a specialized, powerful vacuum. While the vacuum draws air through the system, devices are inserted into the ducts to dislodge any debris that might be stuck to interior surfaces. The debris can then travel down the ducts to the vacuum, which removes it from the system and the home.

What kind of equipment is best for cleaning-truck mounted vacuums or portable vacuums?

NADCA does not endorse one kind of equipment over another. There are two main types of vacuum collection devices:

  1. Those mounted on trucks and trailers, and
  2. portable units. Truck/trailer mounted equipment is generally more powerful than portable equipment. However, portable equipment can often be brought directly into a facility, allowing the vacuum source to be located closer to the ductwork. Both types of equipment will clean to NADCA standards.

All vacuum units should be attached to a collection device for safe containment prior to disposal. Any vacuum collection device which exhausts indoors must be HEPA (high efficiency particulate arrestance) filtered. A vacuum collection device alone will not get an HVAC system clean. The use of methods and tools designed to agitate debris adhered to the surfaces within the system, in conjunction with the use of the vacuum collection device(s), is required to clean HVAC systems. (For example: brushes, air whips, and “skipper balls.”)

How often should residential HVAC systems be cleaned?

Frequency of cleaning depends on several factors, not the least of which is the preference of the home owner. Some of the things that may lead a home owner to consider more frequent cleaning include:

  • Smokers in the household.
  • Pets that shed high amounts of hair and dander.
  • Water contamination or damage to the home or HVAC system.
  • Residents with allergies or asthma who might benefit from a reduction in the amount of indoor air pollutants in the home’s HVAC system.
  • After home renovations or remodeling.
  • Prior to occupancy of a new home.

What is the normal price range for the air duct cleaning service?

The Environmental Protection Agency says that “duct cleaning services typically – but not always – range in cost from $450 to $1000 per heating and cooling system, depending on the services offered, the size of the system to be cleaned, system accessibility, climactic region, and level of contamination” and type of duct material. Consumers should beware of air duct cleaning companies that making sweeping claims about the health benefits of duct cleaning – such claims are unsubstantiated. Consumers should also beware of “blow-and-go” air duct cleaning companies. These companies often charge a nominal fee and do a poor job of cleaning the heating and cooling system. These companies may also persuade the consumer into unneeded services with and/or without their permission. (If you have knowledge of a practicing “blow-and-go” air duct cleaner, contact your local Better Business Bureau to report the company, and your local, federal, and state elected officials to demand legislation.)

What criteria should I use in selecting an HVAC system cleaner?

Interview as many local contractors as you can. Ask them to come to your home and perform a system inspection and give you a quotation. To narrow down your pool of potential contractors, use the following pre-qualifications:

  • Make sure the company is a member in good standing of the National Air Duct Cleaners Association (NADCA).
  • See if the company has been in business long enough to have adequate experience.
  • Inquire whether the company is in good standing with your local Better Business Bureau.
  • Get proof that the company is properly licensed and adequately insured.
  • Verify that the company is certified by NADCA to perform HVAC system cleaning.
  • Make sure that the company is going to clean and visually inspect all of the air ducts and related system components.
  • Avoid advertisements for “$49-$99 whole house specials” and other sales gimmicks.
  • Ask if the company has the right equipment to effectively perform cleaning, and if the company has done work in homes similar to yours. Get references from neighbors if possible.

Why should I choose a NADCA member to have my air ducts cleaned?

NADCA Members have signed a Code of Ethics stating they will do everything possible to protect the consumer, and follow NADCA Standards for cleaning to the best of their ability, for a list of NADCA members near you, click here. Air duct cleaning companies must meet stringent requirements to become a NADCA Member. Among those requirements, all NADCA Members must have certified Air System Cleaning Specialists (ASCS) on staff, who have taken and passed the NADCA Certification Examination. Passing the exam demonstrates extensive knowledge in HVAC design and cleaning methodologies. ASCS’s are also required to further their industry education by attending seminars in order to maintain their NADCA certification status. You may view the NADCA Code of Ethics here.

What are antimicrobial chemicals and why would they need to be used?

Antimicrobial chemicals applied by some companies to the interior surface of the air ducts, to treat microbial contamination such as fungi (mold), viruses or bacteria. Before any antimicrobial chemicals are used, the system should be thoroughly cleaned. It is critical that any antimicrobial treatment used in your system be registered by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency specifically for use in HVAC systems. The use of antimicrobial chemicals is an additional service that is not part of a typical air duct cleaning project.

How long should it take to clean a typical residential HVAC system?

The amount of time it takes to clean a residential HVAC system depends on many variables such as the size of the home, the number of systems, the extent of the contamination and the number of HVAC cleaners performing the job. Ask at least two contractors to inspect your system and give you a time estimate for your particular system. This will give you a general idea of how long the job should take as well as an idea of how thoroughly the contractor plans to do the job.

How can we determine if the HVAC system cleaning was effective?

The best way to determine if the HVAC system cleaning was effective is to perform a visual inspection of the system before and after cleaning. If any dust or debris can be seen during the visual inspection, the system should not be considered cleaned. While you can perform your own visual inspection using a flash light and mirror, a professional cleaning contractor should be able to allow you better access to system components and perhaps the use of specialized inspection tools. In addition, following this post-cleaning check list can help to ensure a top quality job.

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